I The Commomwealth, or State of Pennsylvania (Penn’s Woods)
With a royal grant for 40,000 square miles of land in the New World, William Penn, thirty-eight years old, came up the Delaware River in 1682 and landed at the Blue Anchor Inn, built by the Swedes in 1636. The state now covers 45,126 square miles.
No eastern state contains forests of such varied and abundant timber, or extensive mineral deposits. According to official reports of the state geologist, one and one-third billion dollars’ worth of mineral products were taken from below ground in 1916; of these coal is the greatest wealth producer, over $1,000,000,000 annually, the production being nearly one-half that of the entire United States; the supply is still ample and new fields are being opened. Over $100,000,000 in coke; and more than $42,000,000 in its by-products. Petroleum counts for $26,000,000. Gold, silver, platinum, and asbestos are found in small quantities. Natural gas has been used in this state for manufacturing purposes since 1874. This is the greatest manufacturing region in the world, and has the richest agricultural land in the United States. Pennsylvania stands first among the states in the Union in the number of towns over 5000 in population, making it a remarkable selling market. Philadelphia, the chief city, and third in population, 1,823,779, in the United
States, is on the site of a village of the Lenni Lenape or Delaware Indians, called Coaquanarck. Through William Penn’s liberal policy to early settlers, and later being the seat of government of the United States, many national institutions were originated here, and many more historical buildings are here than in any other city in America. It comprises the whole of Philadelphia County, and has a distinctive character of its own, reminiscent of the old Quaker life, which is given in this book in two Colonial Walks; the Revolutionary Period is given in automobile routes, framed on Washington’s itinerary; and modern institutions, many of them continuing from colonial times, are in chapters, schools, galleries and museums, hospitals, libraries, music, churches. Philadelphia was the leader in the fight for “Liberty of Conscience.”
The obvious picturesqueness of Philadelphia is in the Pennsylvania Hospital, Independence Hall, Christ Church, Old Swedes’, St. Peter’s. Down in lower Spruce Street and neighboring streets are beautiful colonial houses, stately doorways, decorative ironwork, dormer windows, great gables, facing each other at street corners in harmonious proportions. In not another town were the old streets so well worth keeping unchanged. The early Friends, when they left England, packed up, with their “Liberty of Conscience,” the love of beauty in architecture and the money to pay for it. In a fine period of English architecture, they got good English architects—Wren is said to have been of the number—to design, not only their public buildings, but their private houses; and carried over in their personal baggage, paneling, carvings, ironwork, furniture and the various details they were not likely to procure in Philadelphia.
Long straight lines of streets give the town serenity and repose.
1. Independence Hall. 2. Independence Square. 3. Philosophical Society. 4. U.S. Custom House. 5. Carpenters’ Hall. 6. Bank of North America. 7. Christ Church. 8. Site St. George and the Dragon Inn. 9. Betsey Ross House. 10. Friends’ Meeting House. 11. St. George’s M. E. Church. 12. St. John’s Lutheran Church. 13. Christ Church Burial Ground. 14. Free Quaker Building. 15. Fort Rittenhouse. 16. Mikveh Israel Synagogue. 17. First U. S. Mint. 18. Site Robert Morris Residence. 19. Site President Washington’s Residence. 20. Site Pennsylvania National Bank. 21. Franklin Institute.
Colonial Philadelphia, Walk No. 1
The Quaker City; Penn’s “Green country towne.”
Start at the State House, called Independence Hall in 1776; open free 9 A.M. to 4 P.M.; south side of Chestnut Street between Fifth and Sixth. The most interesting building historically in the United States. Architect, Andrew Hamilton, speaker in the Assembly; Georgian, brick; erected for the Province of Pennsylvania as a Colonial State House. Tower has wooden cupola built in 1828, containing clock and bell, presented to the City by Henry Seybert, in 1876.
First occupied by the Assembly in 1735. Second Continental Congress met here May 10, 1775. George Washington was chosen Commander in Chief of the Continental Army June 15, 1775. Declaration of Independence approved July 4, 1776. Articles of Confederation and perpetual union between the States were adopted and signed July 9, 1778. Constitution of the United States of America, long the pride of Americans, and the model for friends of freedom throughout the world, was formed and signed September 17, 1787.
Lafayette was received here in 1824.
The body of Abraham Lincoln rested in state, April 22-24, 1865.
Second National Encampment, Grand Army of the Republic, January, 1868, when annual Memorial Day, May 30, was instituted by Major General John A. Logan. It was observed the same year by posts of the Grand Army of the Republic and the public.
The Liberty Bell was rung July 8, 1776, in celebration of the Declaration of Independence; inscription on bell, “Proclaim liberty throughout all the land, unto all the inhabitants thereof” (Leviticus XXV: 10). It was hung in the tower in 1755, and it was cracked while being tolled for the death of Chief Justice John Marshall July 8, 1835; not rung since 1843.
Portraits of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence, painted chiefly by Charles Willson Peale, and his portrait of Washington are here. Benjamin West’s painting, “Penn’s Treaty with the Indians”; a large collection of portraits of Pennsylvania men notable in the government of the Commonwealth; and a collection of forty-five small historic portraits in pastel by James Sharples. On Chestnut Street front is a marble statue of Washington; sculptor, J. A. Bailey; erected in 1869 by contributions of the public-school children of Philadelphia.
The building was renovated and restored in 1897 to its early appearance. Small buildings connecting west, contain colonial relics; east, Revolutionary relics. West, open porch leads to Congress Hall, corner of Sixth Street, built in 1789 for Court House of Philadelphia County; Georgian, occupied by the Federal Congress, 1790-1800, after necessary alterations by Major L’Enfant. First floor, House of Representatives; second floor, Senate Chamber; gallery added in 1795. Here Washington was inaugurated President, second term, March 4, 1793; and John Adams, second President of the United States, in 1797. National Currency was established. First National Bank founded. Army and Navy organized. Jay’s Treaty determining relations with England considered and ratified. Official announcement of Washington’s death in 1799 was made, and resolution offered by Chief Justice John Marshall, to pay honor to the man “First in war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen.”
Contains sculptures in wood by William Rush; statue of Washington carved in 1815; also eagle on globe, portrait of Michael Hillegas, first Treasurer of the United States until 1789, and other paintings.
Building restored 1896, through the Pennsylvania Society, Colonial Dames of America; architect, William Ziegler.
Corner of Fifth Street, Supreme Court House, or the old City Hall, built in 1789. Second floor occupied by the First Supreme Court of the United States, 1791-1800. Mayor’s Office until 1896. Later headquarters Boy Scouts and Grand Army of the Republic. Now restored to first appearance; museum, Colonial and American Indian collections, paintings.
In 1783, State House Yard was improved, elms planted, walks laid out, and seats placed. Contains statue of Commodore Barry. 104 South Fifth Street, in State House Yard, the American Philosophical Society, built 1789, brick, Georgian; originated in “The Junto,” formed by Benjamin Franklin 1727. See Historic Institutions.
Southeast corner of Fifth and Chestnut Streets, site residence of William Moore Smith, son of first provost of the University of Pennsylvania. Washington’s portrait was painted here by Gilbert Stuart.
Northeast corner of Fifth and Sansom Streets, site Philadelphia Library 1790-1830.
427 Chestnut Street, site of Lawrence mansion, Howe’s headquarters, 1777-78.
421 Chestnut Street, site of United States Hotel. Charles Dickens stayed here March, 1842, first visit to America.
South side of Chestnut Street, below Fifth, United States Custom House; marble, classic; Doric portico; built 1819; architect, John Haviland.
Northwest corner of Fourth and Chestnut Streets, Provident Life and Trust Company, of Philadelphia, modern; contains oil portraits of the directors; among the artists represented are Bernard Uhle, Cecilia Beaux, and Thomas Eakins.
Southeast corner of Fourth and Chestnut Streets, site of Friends meeting-house in 1701, later site of Mathew Carey’s book store in 1800.
320 Chestnut Street, head of Carpenters’ Court. Carpenters’ Hall; open free daily 9 A.M. to 3 P.M., Saturdays to 12.30 P.M.; Georgian, brick; built, 1770 for use of the Carpenters’ Company, founded in 1724.
307 Chestnut Street, Bank of North America; founded in 1781 on the same ground; oldest and first bank, chartered by Congress, in the United States. Through Robert Morris, the first president, victory was made possible to Washington and the Continental Army. Contains portrait of Robert Morris.
Third Street above Chestnut; Post Office in 1713; later Judd’s Hotel during war of 1812.
27 South Third Street, site United States Post Office, 1792.
250 Chestnut Street, site first United States Treasury, 1798.
243 Chestnut Street, site of residence of Governor Thomas Lloyd in 1684, appointed by William Penn.
Letitia Street, west side above Chestnut, east of Second; site of Letitia House, William Penn’s residence, moved to Fairmount Park.
Southeast corner of Second and Black Horse Alley, above Chestnut Street, site Bradford House and printing office, used for colonial Post Office, 1728; Andrew Bradford, postmaster; in 1719 he published the first newspaper in Pennsylvania, The Mercury, a weekly, second in America.
Southwest corner of Front and Market Streets, site of London Coffee House, in 1754, where, in 1780, Robert Morris met with others to consider the establishment of the first bank. Horses, slaves, and cattle were sold here.
About 221-23 North Water Street, site Stephen Girard’s last residence.
111 Spring Street, west of Front, above Race, said to have been residence of Benjamin Franklin 1723-26; brick, three stories and attic; still standing.
Jones’s Alley, above Market Street, west from 14 North Front Street, site Robert Grace’s residence, where the “Junto Club” met in 1727.
110 Market Street, site Robert Aitken’s Printing Office in 1782; he printed the first English Bible in America.
Southwest corner of Second and Market Streets, site Friends’ first meeting-house, 1695-1808, on land donated by George Fox, founder of the Society.
Middle of Market Street, at Second, facing east, site of old Court House, built 1710; used as town hall and seat of the Legislature until the State House was built in 1735. Acceptance of the United States Constitution was here proclaimed to the people December 13, 1787; shown in large painting by Birch, made in 1829, now in City Hall, Broad and Market Streets.
25 North Second Street, office Peter Porcupine’s Gazette, edited by William Cobbett, a keen satirist.
Christ Church, west side of Second Street, north of Market, built 1695. (See Churches.)
200 Arch Street, site Saint George and the Dragon Inn, built 1700, kept by Nicholas Scull, member Franklin’s “Junto,” in 1727; sheriff in 1744; he published a map of the city in 1750. Oldest Inn building standing; from 1791-93 it was kept by John Inskeep, Mayor of Philadelphia, 1800-05. Stage coaches for New York and Baltimore left here regularly.
No. 239 Arch Street, Betsy Ross House, two-story, brick, marked by tablet; now property of American Flag House and Betsy Ross Memorial Association. She made the first flag adopted by the United States, from pencil drawing by Washington, who with Robert Morris and George Ross, called on her to give the commission; the flag was accepted by Congress June 14, 1777, and is now one of the oldest flags in the world, older than those of France, Spain, Germany, Russia, Italy, and Austria. John Paul Jones was first to fly the new flag. Betsy Ross lived to be eighty-four, dying in 1836; she is buried in Mount Moriah Cemetery, where a flag continuously flies over her grave, instituted by the Sons of Veterans. Flag Day was first inaugurated in Philadelphia, 1893.
226 Race Street, site First Moravian Church, 1742-1856.
267 Race Street, site residence of Benjamin Franklin about 1749.
325 Market Street, site residence of Benjamin Franklin, where he first invented the lightning rod, about 1749-50; in 1752, first lightning rod used in the world was set up by Franklin, southeast corner of Second and Race Streets.
229 North Fourth Street, Saint George’s, oldest Methodist Church in the world, used continuously for worship; dedicated November 24, 1769.
Fourth Street above Race, St. Augustine’s Roman Catholic Church, 1796; destroyed in the riot of 1844; rebuilt in 1846.
Old St. John’s Church, Race Street between Fifth and Sixth; first English Lutheran Church in America, built 1806.
Southeast corner of Fourth and Cherry Streets, site Zion Lutheran Church (German), built 1766; in 1790 its organ was considered the finest in America.
Northeast corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, James Russell Lowell stayed here with his bride in 1845.
Southeast corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, Friends meeting-house; oldest in Philadelphia, built in 1804; since 1811 it has been used for the Philadelphia Yearly Meeting of Orthodox Friends, and is said to be largest in the world. (See Historic Burial Grounds.)
Southwest corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, site of residence built for William Smith, D.D., before 1762. First provost of the University of Pennsylvania.
Fourth Street, west side, below Arch, site of the Academy in 1749; beginning of the University, marked with tablet.
Southeast corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, Christ Church burial ground. (See Burial Grounds.)
Southwest corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, Free Quaker Building; tablet, inscription “By general subscription for the Free Quakers; erected in the year of our Lord 1783, and of the Empire 8.” “Fighting Quakers,” who fought in the Revolutionary War against peace principles of the sect. The Apprentices’
Library, organized 1820 in Carpenters’ Hall, for many years only free library in Philadelphia, occupied the building after 1850. Later used by the Grand Lodge of Masons.
515 Cherry Street, residence of Bass Otis in 1819, who made the first American lithograph.
528 Arch Street, site, Pennsylvania College of Dental Surgery, first in Philadelphia, founded 1852; now absorbed by the University of Pennsylvania.
627 Arch Street, site, Woman’s Medical College, first in America to graduate women physicians, founded 1850.
Southeast corner of Seventh and Arch Streets, residence of David Rittenhouse in 1770.
Northwest corner of Seventh and Arch Streets, Fort Rittenhouse; residence of David Rittenhouse, 1787; treasurer of Pennsylvania.
117 North Seventh Street, site, Mikveh Israel Synagogue, built in 1747. Removed to Broad and York Streets.
37-39 North Seventh Street, first United States Mint, 1792. David Rittenhouse, superintendent.
Southeast corner of Sixth and Market Streets, site of Robert Morris residence; next to it, on Market Street, 530-536, site of President Washington’s mansion and John Adams, second President; originally built for Richard Penn.
700 Market Street, Penn National Bank. House where Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence.
801 Market Street, site, office of Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State.
About 808 Market Street, site, residence of Thomas Jefferson, in 1791.
15 South Seventh Street, Franklin Institute, founded 1824; classic architecture, marble; John Haviland, architect.
Colonial Walk No. 2
1. Continental Hotel. 2. Post Office. 3. Walnut Street Theatre. 4. Musical Fund Hall. 5. Potter House. 6. Jewish Cemetery. 7. Pennsylvania Hospital. 8. Morris House. 9. Holy Trinity R. C. Church. 10. Washington Square. 11. The Anthenaeum. 12. St. Mary’s R. C. Church. 13. Old Pine Street Presbyterian Church. 14. St. Peter’s P. E. Church. 15. Market. 16. Site Blue Anchor Inn. 17. Site Slate Roof House. 18. Stock Exchange. 19. St. Paul’s P. E. Church. 20. Girard Bank. 21. St. Joseph’s R. C. Church. 22. Contributionship Fire Insurance. 23. Dispensary.
Southeast corner of Ninth and Chestnut Streets, site, Cook’s Museum and Circus; first mummies brought to the United States are said to have been shown here.
Northwest corner of Ninth and Chestnut Streets, United States Post Office, built in 1884 on site of the Mansion House, built for the official residence of President Washington, but never occupied; used for the University of Pennsylvania. Bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin, sculptor, John Boyle; Chestnut Street front, inscription by Washington: “Venerated for Benevolence, admired for Talent, esteemed for Patriotism, beloved for Philanthropy”; bronze bust, President McKinley in corridor; sculpture group on roof by D. C. French.
Northeast corner of Ninth and Sansom Streets, site, Chinese Museum; later, in 1835, Peale’s Museum; exhibitions by the Franklin Institute were held here.
Northeast corner of Ninth and Walnut Streets, Walnut Street Theatre, built in 1808; oldest theatre in the United States.
808 Locust Street, Musical Fund Hall, built in 1824; oldest building in Philadelphia in continuous use as a hall; Dr. Charles H. Jarvis conducted classical soirées here before the Academy was built; has fine acoustic properties; it is on the site of the Fifth Presbyterian Church, which was moved to Tenth and Arch Streets.
260 South Ninth Street, Potter House, built 1812; Joseph Bonaparte lived here two years; the cartoons, “Birth of Psyche,” brought by him from Versailles, still form the mural decorations of the banquet hall.
Northeast corner of Spruce and Darien Streets, below Ninth, Jewish Cemetery, founded 1740; Rebecca Gratz, heroine in Scott’s “Ivanhoe,” is buried near the entrance.
225 South Eighth Street, Morris Mansion, built 1787; typical colonial model.
Eighth and Pine Streets, Pennsylvania Hospital, founded, 1751, by Dr. Thomas Bond and Benjamin Franklin; Georgian. Contains Benjamin West’s famous painting “Christ Healing the Sick”; woman with white head shawl is said to be likeness of West’s mother.
715 Spruce Street, residence of Nicholas Biddle in 1820; now used by the American Roman Catholic Society.
705 Locust Street, residence of E. L. Davenport, tragedian.
Southwest corner of Seventh and Locust Streets, site where Dr. Horace Howard Furness began his great variorum edition of Shakespeare.
618 Locust Street, residence of John W. Forney, journalist.
Southwest corner of Seventh and Walnut Streets, oldest Savings Bank in America; established 1816, by Mr. Condy Raguet with twelve directors; classic adaptation; Furness, Evans and Company, architects; among the oil portraits to be seen there are Lewis Wain and John C. Lowber, by Thomas Sully; G. Colesberry Purves, by William M. Chase, and Condy Raguet, artist unknown.
Southeast corner of Seventh and Chestnut Streets, site, residence of George Clymer, signer of the Declaration of Independence.
708 Chestnut Street, site, residence of Jared Ingersoll, signer of the United States Constitution; later, residence George M. Dallas, Vice-President of the United States. Opposite, on Chestnut Street below Eighth, eastern end of Green’s Hotel, site, residence of Thomas Fitzsimmons, signer of the United States Constitution.
632 Chestnut Street, site of Waln mansion.
615-17-19 Chestnut Street, site, The Arcade, built in 1826; the Public Ledger issued its first number here March 25, 1836.
605 Chestnut Street, bronze tablet front, inscription: “Site of First Chestnut Street Theatre, 1793-1855. ‘Hail! Columbia,’ composed by Joseph Hopkinson, first sung here, April 25, 1798, by Gilbert Fox. Fanny Elssler danced here in 1840; Jenny Lind sung, in 1850; Charlotte Cushman acted, in 1851; erected by The City Historical Society of Philadelphia.”
Northwest corner of Sixth and Ranstead Streets, above Chestnut, site, The Falstaff Hotel, from 1814-16; First City Troop met here.
130 South Sixth Street, site, residence Thomas G. Wharton; birthplace in 1824 of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
Southwest corner of Sixth and Walnut Streets, Curtis Publishing Company, on site of the Ludwig Building, a school erected by Christopher Ludwig, “Baker General” of the Revolution; see Architecture.
Southeast corner of Sixth and Walnut Streets, site, Walnut Street Gaol, 1775-1838; extended nearly to Fifth Street; in the rear, fronting Locust Street, then Prune Street, was the debtors’ prison; Judge William Moore, also Provost William Smith, were confined here, in 1758, for publishing so-called seditious pamphlets on patriotism; the students went there to recite their lessons to him; Robert Morris, financier of the Revolution, was in prison here, in 1797, for debts incurred in a large private transaction; first successful balloon ascension in America was from the gaol yard, by J. P. Blanchard, French aëronaut, January, 1793.
Sixth to Seventh Streets, on Walnut, Washington Square, patented by William Penn, 1704-05, as burial ground for strangers; hundreds of Revolutionary soldiers were buried here, also victims of the great yellow fever epidemic in 1793; in early times colored slaves gathered here to sing their native songs, and give wild African dances among the graves; named Washington Square by Councils, May, 1825, and improved for public use; monument to the Washington Grays, bronze, life-size figure of a private in original uniform.
215 South Sixth Street, site, residence of Hon. James Campbell, United States Postmaster General, appointed by President Pierce.
219 South Sixth Street, The Athenaeum of Philadelphia, founded, 1813, by students from the University, for a circulating library; first president, William Tilghman, Chief Justice of Pennsylvania; the Law Library was there many years, while Courts were Sixth and Chestnut Streets; was great chess center; architect, John Notman.
245 South Sixth Street, site, residence Commodore Barry, who succeeded John Paul Jones as head of the American Navy.
Locust Street below Sixth, south side, site, Prune Street Theatre; “Home Sweet Home” was sung here for the first time in America.
Northwest corner of Sixth and Spruce Streets, Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church, built, 1739; circular building, alternate red and black bricks; body of Stephen Girard was buried here for many years; later removed to Girard College.
144-54 South Fifth Street, site, Free Quaker Cemetery.
127 South Fifth Street, site, Philadelphia Dispensary, oldest in United States; founded by Dr. Benjamin Rush in 1786; now merged with Pennsylvania Hospital.
Northeast corner of Fourth and Walnut Streets, residence General Stephen Moylan, military secretary to Washington; Muster Master General of the Continental Army in 1775.
South side Walnut Street, above Fourth. John Marshall, Chief Justice of the United States, died here July 6, 1835.
Willing’s Alley, south of Walnut Street, east of Fourth, St. Joseph’s Church; built in 1731; oldest Roman Catholic Church in Philadelphia; has painting, “Hagar and Ishmael,” by Benjamin West; Washington is said to have been first referred to as “The Father of his Country” by the priest, in his sermon after Washington’s death; Lancaster County makes the same claim.
309 Walnut Street, site, last residence of Bishop White.
212 South Fourth Street, Philadelphia Contributionship for the Insurance of Houses from Loss by Fire, oldest fire-insurance company in America, founded 1752, by Benjamin Franklin; known as “The Hand-in-Hand,” from its seal; Classic architecture, built, 1835; portraits, Horace Binney by Thomas Sully; painted in 1837, and by George B. A. Healy in 1857; Dr. Charles Willing and Hon. John Welsh by Bernard Uhle; James Lewis Smith by Henry Inman; William Sellers and Ellis Yarnall by Percy Bigland, English; Alexander Biddle, Sydney P. Hutchinson and John T. Morris by Vonnoh; James S. Smith, 2d, by Van Morcken.
218-22 South Fourth Street, site, Edward Shippen mansion; President, Provisional Council, and First Mayor of Philadelphia; his daughter, Peggy Shippen, was married to Benedict Arnold.
Southwest corner of Fourth and Prune Streets, or Locust, residence of Dr. Caspar Wistar, in 1799; the garden extended to St. Mary’s churchyard; is now headquarters of the Philadelphia Chapter No. 2 of Colonial Dames.
244-50 South Fourth Street, St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, built, 1763, has a fine pieta by Boucher; in the graveyard are the tombs of Commodore Barry and of Thomas Fitzsimmons, members Continental Congress.
338 Spruce Street, residence, Joseph Hopkinson, born 1770, died 1842; author of “Hail! Columbia,” 1798; it was called “The President’s March,” and always sung when Washington held state events; music by Henry Roth; he also wrote “The Battle of the Kegs.”
Southwest corner of Fourth and Pine Streets, Old Pine Street Presbyterian Church, brick, rough cast; classic; porch with Corinthian columns; built, 1857; graveyard is on both sides; east portion belongs to First Church, west to Old Pine.
Southwest corner of Leithgow Street, above Fourth and South Streets, South Street Theatre, 1766-1821; now used as a business building.
East side of Leithgow Street, west of Fourth, between South and Bainbridge Streets, site, Apollo Street Theatre, 1811.
Spruce to Pine Streets, Third to Fourth, site, Old Almshouse, 1731, and Philadelphia Hospital, 1732.
Northwest corner of Third and Lombard Streets, residence of Charles Willson Peale, 1741-1827.
Southwest corner of Third and Pine Streets, Saint Peter’s Church, built, 1761; in the Churchyard are the tombs of Rev. Jacob Duché and Charles Willson Peale, artist, 1741-1827; it is often said, “To belong to old Philadelphia Society one must have an ancestor who entered Paradise through Saint Peter’s graveyard”; (see Churches).
Northwest corner of Third and Pine Streets, site, residence of Colonel John Nixon, who read the Declaration of Independence.
Northeast corner of Third and Pine Streets, site, residence of Rev. Jacob Duché; later, British Military Hospital.
224 Pine Street, site, residence, Mayor John Stamper, 1760; Governor John Penn died here. “His funeral was very great, making quite a crowd.”
237 DeLancey Street, above Pine, site, residence of Horace Binney, the great lawyer.
About 260 South Third Street, site, Bingham residence; later, in 1828, Joseph Head’s Mansion House, known as the most sumptuous inn in America; John Quincy Adams stayed here in 1811; Pennsylvania Society of the Cincinnati gave a dinner in 1811, celebrating the unveiling of a monument to General Wayne; “Sons of Washington” held their annual dinner here on Washington’s Birthday; French citizens gave a dinner in 1830, Peter Du Ponceau presiding, in popular demonstration after the French Revolution of the overthrow of Charles X.
256 South Third Street, site, “Washington Hall,” built, 1814; erected by the Washington Benevolent Society; here General Andrew Jackson was fêted and dined, in February, 1819; Lafayette attended a dinner in 1824 given to Richard Rush, envoy to England from the United States, afterward member of Adams Cabinet; second Horticultural Exhibition was held in 1830.
244 South Third Street, residence of Samuel Powell, Mayor of Philadelphia, 1775-89; fine colonial architecture; many functions were held here during the Revolution; Washington celebrated his twentieth wedding anniversary here, January 6, 1779.
228 South Third Street, site, Thomas Willing residence, in 1746.
217-31 South Third Street, St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal Church, built, 1761; Headquarters of Philadelphia City Mission; Edwin Forrest, tragedian, is buried in the graveyard; (see Churches).
Southeast corner of Dock and Moravian Streets, below Walnut, publisher’s office of Burton’s Gentleman’s Magazine, while Edgar Allan Poe was editor.
Southeast corner of Third and Walnut Streets, site, residence of Alexander Hamilton, and site of Fort Wilson, residence of James Wilson, a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
301 Walnut Street, site, residence of Dr. Benjamin Rush, in 1791, a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
307 Walnut Street, site, residence of Judge Richard Peters.
Back part of Walnut Court, between 314-318 Walnut Street, site, Friends’ Almshouse, 1713-1841.
Southeast corner of Third and Pear Streets (now Chancellor), Robert Bell’s bookstore; Bell’s imprints are sought by collectors.
116-120 South Third Street, Girard National Bank, oldest banking building in America; Stephen Girard, financier of the War of 1812, bought it in 1812; it was his office until his death, December 26, 1831.
114 South Third Street, site, Jay Cooke’s Banking House, financier of the Civil War.
Sansom Street, formerly Lodge Street, above Second; first successful locomotive, Old Ironsides, built in America was made by Matthias Baldwin in 1828.
Northwest corner of Second and Sansom Streets, site, residence of William Logan, 1750-60.
Southeast corner of Second and Sansom Streets, site, Slate Roof House, 1698-1867, built for William Penn; his son John was born here, January 29, 1700; sold to William Trent, founder of Trenton, in 1803, for eight hundred and fifty pounds; General Forbes, Governor of Pennsylvania, died here. “His funeral was of great splendor.”
121 South Second Street, site, residence of Robert Fulton, artist and engineer.
123 South Second Street, site, residence of Captain Joseph Anthony; Assembly met here in 1828-30.
Back of 145-47 South Second Street, site of Indian reservation.
Second Street, southeast corner of Little Dock Street, site, Loxley House in 1720; Lydia Darrach is supposed to have lived here; Benjamin Franklin used the front door key in electricity experiment with a kite.
Water Street, between Walnut and Dock Streets, Hamilton’s Wharf. First Assembly Balls were held here, in a large room, about 1740.
Second and Pine Streets, Second Street Market, built, 1745.
200 Pine Street, site, residence of Charles Elias Boudinot.
South Street from South Street, corner of American, between Second and Third Streets, inscription on corner house: “In this street was birthplace of Edwin Forrest; Commodore Joseph Cresson; Alexander Wilson; and Joel B. Sutherland, first President of the Society of 1812.”
Second Street below South, west side, Southwark Bank, built, 1825.
30 South Street, site, Plumsted House; Mason and Dixon’s Observatory was near here.
Front and Pine Streets; probable site of the Penny Pot House.
Northwest corner of Front and Dock Streets, probable site of the Blue Anchor Inn, in 1682, where William Penn first landed in Philadelphia.
Notable Architecture
Architecture should comprise beauty, fitness, and stability. It is classified by various styles from the past, necessarily developed by modern characterists. Eras of great national vigor invariably express themselves architecturally, by means of great scale. To illustrate, the Pyramids at Gizeh and the great temple at Karnak mark the zenith of Egyptian civilization; the Parthenon echoes the halcyon days of Greece; Imperial Rome boasted the Baths of Caracalla and the Colosseum; the glorious Renaissance in Italy culminated in the grandeur of St. Peter’s Church; and the consecration and craftsmanship of Gothic builders crashed to earth with the lofty vaulting of Beauvais. Also consider, in chronological order, the buildings of our own time, they present a mute record of the ever-increasing virility of the nation; in the lacelike tower of the Woolworth Building, piercing the blue heaven for a thousand feet, we read the tremendous advance and limitless possibilities of the country whose dreams become realities. Among the early Colonial or Georgian buildings are, Carpenters’ Hall, Chestnut Street below Fourth; Christ Church, Second Street above Market; Hamilton Mansion in Woodlands Cemetery, Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue; Independence Hall, group, Chestnut Street between Fifth and Sixth; Old Swedes’ Church (Gloria Dei), Swanson Street near Front and Christian Streets; Pennsylvania Hospital, Eighth and Pine Streets; St. Peter’s Church, Third and Pine Streets.
Egyptian. Synagogue Adath-Jeshurum, Broad and Diamond Streets; Indiana limestone; architects, Thomas, Churchman, and Molitor.
Classic. Academy of Music, Broad and Locust Streets. Interior classic; brick; built, 1850; architects, LeBrun & Runge; the audience room is very large, modeled after celebrated opera houses in Europe; plan of the balconies is now considered obsolete, but the general effect is undeniably fine, and has a flavor of the Second Empire. Cathedral of SS. Peter and Paul, Logan Square; brownstone, built about 1860; architects, Napoleon LeBrun for the building, John Notman for the façade; it is impressive and dignified. United States Custom House, Chestnut Street below Fifth; architect, John Haviland. Girard College, Corinthian and Girard Avenues; architect, Thomas U. Walters; modeled after the Parthenon. Girard National Bank, 116 South Third Street; portico of the Third Street front is Corinthian, studied from the Parthenon and Temple of Saturnus; it stands on a stylobate, elevated above the pavement by steps on three sides, which gives it emphasis and dignity, and marks it as the feature of approach to the building; this portico is flanked on either side by a pavilion of pilasters, of the same character as the columns of the portico, the space between the pilasters being pierced with windows which are adorned with architraves and cornices supported by carved brackets; the pilasters and columns are surmounted by a cornice pediment and balustrade of great elegance of detail and proportion, studied from the best class of Roman antique work; the tympanum of the pediment is enriched by the date of the erection, 1795, and the American eagle in bas-relief carving, of excellent modeling; from the pavement to the apex of the portico is fifty-six feet; entire front is of Pennsylvania blue marble; the building was erected for the Bank of the United States in 1797, and followed closely the lines of the Dublin Exchange; architect, Samuel Blodgett; marble work was done by Claudius LeGrand in his yard at Tenth and Market Streets; this was the first building in Philadelphia to be erected with portico and pillars; in 1901, it was carefully renovated by James H. Windrim. Girard Trust Company, northwest corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets, built in 1908; architects, McKim, Mead & White, New York; Furness & Evans, Philadelphia; has steel frame and Gustavino dome faced with white marble; while the form of this building was probably suggested by the Pantheon at Rome, details of the order are rather Greek, and the colonetts, forming the mullions of the windows, suggest the Certosa di Pavia. Ridgway Library, South Broad and Christian Streets, Doric; built, 1880; granite; architect, Addison Hutton. Old Stock Exchange, Second, Walnut and Dock Streets, white marble; has semicircular Corinthian colonnade, and lantern modeled after the Temple of Lysicrates; architect, William Strickland. St. Patrick’s Church, Twenty-first and Locust Streets, Roman; classic; brick and granite; built, 1913; architects, LaFarge & Morris, New York; façade of this church is big in conception, full of dignity and repose, and forms a most successful termination to the vista when viewed from Rittenhouse Street. United States Mint, Seventeenth and Spring Garden Streets, built, 1898; light gray granite; architect, James Knox Taylor.
Moorish. Horticultural Hall, Fairmount Park; built, 1876; architect, Herman J. Schwarzmann. Rodeph Shalom Synagogue, Mt. Vernon and North Broad Streets.
Byzantine. First Baptist Church, Seventeenth Street above Chestnut, stone; Edgar V. Seeler, architect. Jacob Reed’s Sons, store, 1424 Chestnut Street, brick, marble, and tile; built, 1904; Price & McLanahan, architects; façade is one of the most interesting in the city; the column caps are symbolic of the business conducted therein, as is also the tile work on the intrados of the arch, which depicts the shearing and manufacturing of wool and has the richness of an Oriental rug.
Gothic. Academy of the Fine Arts, Broad and Cherry Streets, Venetian polychrome Gothic, brick, limestone, and tile; architects, Furness & Hewitt; façade is interesting, as the most prominent example of the Venetian Gothic style, used in Philadelphia in the latter part of the nineteenth century. Broad and Arch Streets Methodist Episcopal Church, white marble. St. Clement’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Twentieth and Cherry Streets, Norman; built, 1857; brownstone; architect, John Notman; later improvements; new roof; apse; Lady chapel and parish buildings by Horace Wells Sellers. St. James’ Protestant Episcopal Church, Twenty-second and Walnut Streets, English decorated Gothic, with sculptured band around the tower; Ohio green sandstone and granite; architect, G. W. Hewitt. St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Germantown Avenue and Coulter Street, granite and limestone; architect, Richard Upjohn of New York, who first used the principles of Gothic architecture in America; rectory, St. Margaret’s Home, parish house, and the rood screen in the church are by Cope & Stewardson; organ screen is by Pierson. St. Mark’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Locust Street below Seventeenth, early decorated Gothic; brownstone; architect, John Notman; later improvements include the Lady chapel, architects, Cope & Stewardson. Second Presbyterian Church, Twenty-first and Walnut Streets, French, with early English details; resembles the Parish Church in Norfolk, England; architect, Henry Sims. St. Stephen’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Tenth Street above Chestnut, early Gothic, with two octagonal towers; stone; interior decorated by Frank Furness; rich and unusual color. South Memorial Church of the Advocate, Eighteenth and Diamond Streets, French; architect, C. M. Burns; built, 1897; interior profusely adorned with carving; windows by Clayton & Bell.
Romanesque. Church of St. Francis de Sales, Roman Catholic, Forty-seventh Street and Springfield Avenue, brick and terra cotta; Gustavino dome and mosaic, a very beautiful example of the style; built, 1912; architect, Henry D. Daggit. Holy Trinity Protestant Episcopal Church, Nineteenth and Walnut Streets, Norman, brownstone; architect, John Notman. Masonic Temple, Broad and Filbert Streets, Norman with elaborately carved porch; gray granite; built about 1870; architect, James H. Windrim. Church of the Saviour, Protestant Episcopal, Thirty-eighth Street, north of Chestnut Street, Norman; architect, Charles M. Burns; the half dome and apse are decorated by Edwin H. Blashfield; said to be one of the finest examples of mosaic work in this country; alms boxes and reredos, designed by the late James Warner, are also of considerable interest.
Renaissance. Art Club, southwest corner of Broad and Chancellor Streets, Italian and French influences; brick and Indiana limestone; architect, Frank Miles Day. City Hall, open daily, 9.00 A.M. to 3.00 P.M., Broad and Market Streets, on site of Penn Square, formerly Centre Square, on which was a Friends’ meeting-house in 1685; Rochambeau’s Encampment, 1781; Wayne’s Encampment, 1794; and the first city waterworks in 1801; this is the largest single building in America; covers four and a half acres, French, begun in 1871, white marble with granite base; built in the form of a hollow square, with passageways connecting both Market and Broad Streets; contains 662 rooms; the tower, on the north center, about 550 feet high, is surmounted by a colossal bronze statue of William Penn; center and corner pavilions have attic stories, and hanging stairs of polished granite; architect, John McArthur, Jr.; chief points of interest are the council chambers; mayor’s reception room, with portraits of Philadelphia mayors; and state court rooms; from the roof is an excellent view of the city. To Alexander Milne Calder, Philadelphia is indebted for the applied sculpture, the artistic feature of the building, many scores of figures, symbolic of the history of this nation and the world, fine types of Indians, and other races; the negro heads being known among artists as the best of their kind; ornamentation symbolic of music, art, science, and commerce, is used as an integral part of this great public edifice, an inherent factor in true decoration, where it comes into its own, as well as in gardens, parks, boulevards, and plazas. Statues outside, on City Hall pavement, are, General John F. Reynolds, by Rogers; General McClellan; the Pilgrim by Saint Gaudens; the Quaker by Giuseppe Donato; Stephen Girard and John Wanamaker by J. Massey Rhind; Joseph Leidy, M.D.; President McKinley, and John C. Bullitt. College of Physicians, Twenty-second Street, above Chestnut, English; built, 1910; architects, Cope & Stewardson. Dropsie College, Broad Street below York, French; architects, Pitcher & Tachau. Hamilton Court, Thirty-ninth and Chestnut Streets, Italian; steel frame faced with brick and limestone; an apartment house built around an open court, recalling very strongly, both in color and detail, the earlier Venetian palaces. Memorial Hall, Fairmount Park, German, granite; built, 1876; architect, Herman J. Schwarzmann; one of the best designed monumental buildings in the city. Union League addition, Fifteenth and Sansom Streets, Italian; steel frame, faced with limestone; built, 1912; architect, Horace Trumbauer: a very dignified and restrained elevation, suggestive of a Roman palace.
Spanish. The First Church of Christ Scientist, Walnut Street above Fortieth; architects, Carrere & Hastings. Pennsylvania Institute for the Instruction of the Blind, Overbrook; Spanish mission; architects, Cope & Stewardson.
English. Mellor, Meigs and Howe Office, 205 South Juniper Street, rough brick; architects, Mellor & Meigs.
The Athenaeum of Philadelphia, 219 South Sixth Street; architect, John Notman; has best points of work done in 1850, showing traditions of the past, with developments and characteristics of its own; interior has a most beautiful reading room. The University Buildings, from Thirty-fourth to Fortieth Streets, Walnut Street to Woodland Avenue, add much to the architectural attraction of West Philadelphia; entrances to the campus, near the dormitories, are fine Tudor gateways, wrought iron, with brick and stone piers. (See University of Pennsylvania.) Hon. James Arthur Balfour said in 1917, “The Americans build Brobdignagian cathedrals, and use them for office buildings.” The Skyscrapers. Adelphia Hotel, Thirteenth and Chestnut Streets, Italian Renaissance, brick and terra cotta; built, 1914; architect, Horace Trumbauer; the arabesque detail on lower stories of the façade, and pattern formed by projecting bricks, on the stories above, are worthy of notice; interiors are pleasing and architecturally correct. Bell Telephone, a Parkway building, corner of Seventeenth and Arch Streets; height above ground 273 feet; stone; with interesting façade; architect, John T. Windrim. Bellevue-Stratford Hotel, southwest corner Broad and Walnut Streets, French Renaissance; steel frame, faced with terra cotta; architects, Hewitt Bros. Most beautifully proportioned and artistic business building in Philadelphia. Bourse, Fourth to Fifth Streets, below Market; adaptation of the François Premier; with fine feeling of dignity, in placing within the broad paving; architects, Hewitt Bros. Bulletin Building, Juniper and Filbert Streets, French; steel frame, faced with terra cotta; architect, Edgar V. Seeler. Curtis Publishing Company, Sixth and Walnut Streets, modern adaptation of Georgian; steel frame, faced with white marble and brick; built, 1910; architect, Edgar V. Seeler; faces Independence Square, and although thoroughly modern, harmonizes perfectly, both in color and design, with the historic Georgian group, of which Independence Hall is the center, and adds to the quiet colonial atmosphere of the Square; interior is excellently designed; entrance, lobby, editorial offices, and the employes’ dining room being of particular interest. Mechanical equipment is the finest of its kind in the world, producing an average of 5,558,600 complete paid for publications per issue of the Ladies’ Home Journal, Saturday Evening Post, and The Country Gentleman for six months ending June 30, 1924. Twenty original paintings, and the mosaic “The Dream Garden,” by Maxfield Parrish, a mural made of Tiffany favrile glass, the work proceeded through an entire year, in the Tiffany Studios, where each piece of glass was fired under the personal supervision of Mr. Tiffany and Mr. Briggs; time can never impair its freshness, color, or luminosity. Visitors will be shown the entire plant daily, except Saturdays and Sundays, between 9.00 A.M. and 5.00 P.M. Farm Journal, Seventh Street and Washington Square, Georgian; colonial brick and Indiana limestone; architects, Bunting & Shrigley. Harrison Building, Fifteenth and Market Streets, François Premier; built, 1895; architects, Cope & Stewardson; an unusual example of well-studied, though elaborate Renaissance detail; notice the graceful roof, recalling the charming chateaux along the Loire. Land Title Building, southwest corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets, modern adaptation of classic; steel frame, faced with gray granite and brick; architects, D. H. Burnham & Co., Chicago; contrast the scale of the order, in the newer portion of the building on Broad Street entrance, with the insignificant order in the old building. Manufacturers’ Club, Broad and Walnut Streets, Italian Renaissance; built, 1914; steel frame, faced with limestone; architects, Simon & Bassett; has a handsome façade, crowned by a daring Florentine cornice; interior unusually interesting in detail. Racquet Club, Sixteenth Street below Walnut, Georgian; colonial brick, marble trimmings; architect, Horace Trumbauer. Real Estate Trust Building, southeast corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets, Renaissance; architect, Edgar V. Seeler. Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Broad and Walnut Streets, modern adaptation, style of the Adam Brothers; built, 1912; steel frame, faced with colonial brick and Indiana limestone; architects, Warren & Wetmore, New York, Horace Trumbauer, Philadelphia, associate. The keynote of this structure is refinement and good taste; a recognition of the fact that commercialism and good architecture are by no means incompatible. Stephen Girard Building, Twelfth and Girard Streets, modern adaptation of Greek classic; built about 1894; steel frame, faced with brick and marble; architect, John T. Windrim; details of this building are interesting; note the bronze caryatid figures which support the heads of the second story windows; the wrought iron gates to the court on Girard Street rank with the best modern wrought ironwork in the city. Wanamaker Store, Chestnut, Market, Juniper, and Thirteenth Streets, modern adaptation of Italian Renaissance, built, 1910; steel frame, with light gray granite; architects, D. H. Burnham & Co., Chicago; exterior of this store is one of the finest in the city, it is simple, dignified, and impressive, without being monotonous; the great scale of the Doric order at the base, the severe wall treatment, and the splendid cornice, combine to express a purity and loftiness seldom equaled in commercial buildings; a guide may be had, upon application, who will conduct visitors through the entire building including the kitchens. West Philadelphia High School, Forty-sixth and Walnut Streets, Tudor Gothic; rough brick and Indiana limestone; built, 1913, by the City Architect. Widener Memorial Home for crippled children, Broad Street and Olney Avenue, Georgian, built, 1906; Harvard brick and marble trimmings; architect, Horace Trumbauer; has a very beautifully designed wrought iron gateway.
To make a “City Beautiful” is to give it wide streets, lined with handsome buildings and houses, plenty of parks, boulevards, and to rid it of rows upon rows of semi-shanty premises, small, ill-kept, and unattractive. Each new building that is put up within the city limits should, in its arrangements and architecture, help toward making the locality in which it is erected more attractive than at the present time. This idea has been carried out in the Carnegie Free Library buildings, scattered about within the limits of the municipality, as their varied exteriors are very distinguished, from an architectural point. The interiors are designed to avoid the multiplication of corridors; principal rooms used for reading, the art and reference rooms, are stately and fine.
An interesting Gateway is the entrance to the Manheim Cricket Club, Germantown, Georgian; consisting of massive brick piers, surmounted by stone caps, connected at the top with a wrought iron supporting lantern, below which are the heavy wrought iron central gates; this, with smaller gateways, and a most attractive brick wall, forms the enclosure for the grounds; architects, McKim, Mead & White.
Art Collections and Art Schools
Philadelphia being the seat of government of colonial times, is extremely rich in historic portraits. They are in The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts; Independence Hall; Historical Society of Pennsylvania; Carpenters’ Hall; American Philosophical Society; Pennsylvania Hospital; Academy of Natural Science; The Library Company of Philadelphia; Mercantile Library; College of Physicians; United States Mint; University of Pennsylvania; many banks and insurance companies.
Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Broad Street above Arch; open free daily, 9.00 A.M. to 5.00
P.M., Sundays, 1.00 P.M. to 5.00 P.M.; fee for special exhibitions; was the first art institute in America, founded, 1805; its history is in no small measure the history of American art itself, and dates back to 1791, when Charles Willson Peale attempted to organize in Philadelphia a school of art; from this grew, in 1794, the Columbianum, which held the first exhibition of paintings, in 1795, in Independence Hall. The permanent collection of paintings and sculpture now includes the Gallery of National Portraiture, with the largest number of portraits by Gilbert Stuart to be seen in any museum; and notable works by other early American painters—Benjamin West, Washington Allston, Matthew Pratt, the Peales, Sully, Neagle, Inman, Eichholz, Trumbull, and Bass Otis; the Gibson Collection, largely composed of the Continental schools; Temple collection of modern American paintings; important works by many of the world’s greatest artists; and the Phillips collection of about forty thousand etchings and engravings. Annual exhibitions are, miniatures, water colors, illustration, and etchings in November and December; oil painting and sculpture in February and March, considered the salon of living American artists; also special exhibitions and lectures on art. The Academy coöperates with the system of International Catalogue Exchange.
Since the beginning of the Academy’s existence, men and women whose names have become illustrious in the annals of American art have been enrolled as students. The schools are equipped in every way to teach the technique of painting and sculpture, the faculty is composed of representative artists of the day; collections, galleries, classrooms, models, and casts are admirably fitted to afford instruction fully equal to that obtainable in Europe. Many substantial prizes are awarded annually to students upon the merits of their work. The William Emlen Cresson Travelling Scholarships send, on an average, sixteen students abroad yearly for four months, and enable them to return to the Academy and continue their studies without payment of tuition fee. The Fellowship of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, organized 1897, sends out annually two exhibitions of original oil paintings by notable artists; one to other cities, the other to the Philadelphia public schools, where they remain one month in each school; while there, the paintings are explained by a member of the Fellowship to school children, thus teaching them true appreciation of art. A Picture Purchase Fund was established in 1912, with which pictures have been bought, from Fellowship Exhibitions, and placed in Philadelphia libraries and public schools.
John Graver Johnson Museum of Paintings, 510 South Broad Street, left by bequest April, 1917, to the City of Philadelphia, is open to the public; throughout Europe and America this vast collection of old and modern masters is famous for extent and merit. “No other American collection has so wide a range and so even a quality,” says F. Mason Perkins; it contains scores of examples which could not be duplicated at any price. Noted for the completeness of different schools of painting.
Philadelphia School of Design for Women, southwest corner of Broad and Master Streets; first industrial art school in this country; similar to the “Ecoles Professionelles des Femmes,” in Paris; was founded in 1844 by Mrs. Sarah Peters, the American wife of the British Consul in Philadelphia, in her own house; later, the Franklin Institute assumed charge of the classes until 1853, when it was incorporated, and a Board of Directors elected. Its aim is to put art students in touch with business demands, as well as to cultivate, to the highest degree, their artistic ability. The Normal Art Course embodies all the special studies required by modern educators for teachers of art and design, and with courses in the fine arts, illustration, and costume illustration; has trained many women, now earning handsome emoluments and winning distinction. The residence on Broad Street, forming entrance to the school, which occupies large buildings in the rear, was the home of Edwin Forrest, a famous tragedian; the fine gallery which he erected to house his collection of paintings, now at the Forrest Home for Actors at Holmesburg, is used for annual exhibitions of the school’s painting classes. Edwin Forrest died here in 1872 and John Sartain in 1897; John Sartain was celebrated as a mezzotint engraver, and lived here with his daughter, Miss Emily Sartain, then principal of the school, herself a skilled painter, and engraver in mezzotint; who with her well chosen faculty of eminent artists, carried to a prosperous fulfilment Mrs. Peters’ initiative effort.
Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art was founded in 1876, as a concrete embodiment of the lessons taught by the Centennial Exhibition, and has developed forms of artistic craftsmanship that were practically unknown in America. The Museum is housed in Memorial Hall, Fairmount Park, memorial of the Centennial; Modern Renaissance; architect, Herman J. Schwarzmann. Open free, Mondays, 12.00 M., other days 9.30 A.M., closing 5.00 P.M., Sundays, 1.00 P.M. to 6.00 P.M. Established as a museum of art in all its branches and technical application, with a special view to the development of the art industries of the state. Among its important collections are the W. P. Wilstach paintings, about five hundred old masters, with their schools; and contemporary international paintings, belonging to the City of Philadelphia; with $700,000 endowment, interest to be used for their care and increase, by the Commissioners of Fairmount Park; among the many brilliant artists represented are, Whistler, Munkácsy, Sorolla, Zuloago, Velasquez, the Barbizon, Italian, and Dutch Schools of Landscape. The famous Bayeux tapestry is here; laces; vestments; porcelains; enamels; carved ivories; period furniture; some of the Edwin Atlee Barber collection of American pottery and porcelains; Lewis collection of Swiss stained glass, sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; Frishmuth collection of colonial antiquities. A Bureau of Identification is maintained where art objects may be classified.
The school is at the northwest corner of Broad and Pine Streets; porch of this building, facing Broad Street, is a fine example of Tuscan architecture, erected, 1828. The school has forty instructors. Free scholarships are given in each county of this state. This is the leading school in America in associating the study of art with practical training; through its equipment students not only design, but actually manufacture; it includes a complete textile plant with looms, dye house, and all related appliances which make possible the production of most artistic fabrics; other courses are cast and wrought metal; furniture; leather work; pottery; garden furniture in cement; mosaic; also the Normal Art Courses, illustration; architectural drawing; modeling; interior decoration; book binding. Classes are attended by men and women, who pursue exactly the same studies. Graduates are sought to fill lucrative positions as designers; artistic craftsmen; and art teachers.
Drexel Institute, Thirty-second and Chestnut Streets. A day and evening technical school of Art, Science, and Industry for men and women; founded by Anthony J. Drexel, 1891; Renaissance, brick; architects, Wilson Brothers. The leading American and European current periodicals relating to art, science, and technology are in the library. Art Gallery contains collections owned by John D. Lankenau, works by modern German masters, and Anthony J. Drexel, works of International, contemporary, modern painters. The Museum, open free 10.00 A.M. to 5.00 P.M. daily, except Sundays, includes examples of Industrial Art and the Decorative Arts of India, Egypt, China, Japan, and Europe.
Graphic Sketch Club, 719 Catharine Street, founded by Samuel S. Fleisher in 1899, to provide, free, an art center which should give the culture craved by many intelligent young people, to whom it had been denied by circumstances. The Club House is open only at night, Saturday afternoons, and all day Sundays. This is an Art Club in effect, as well as name; rooms are artistically furnished in beautiful color harmonies, and embellished with choice bronzes bought at our Academy exhibitions, and fine porcelains. Students are educated in art, for the practical good it will do them, and cultural growth; all are day workers. The faculty is composed of well known artists; classes include portrait and still life painting; illustration and sculpture. From this school have gone some of the most original workers in the schools of the Academy of the Fine Arts. Landscape classes are in session during the summer. Lectures are given on art or musical topics. Membership in the Club is attained by attendance in the classes for three years.
Public Art School, Park Avenue and Master Street, founded by Charles G. Leland, now under the direction of the Board of Public Education; open to pupils in grammar grades of public schools. A course of study was planned, including drawing, clay modeling, and wood carving, to train students to originate design, and do the manual work as well, so that the designer should be the artisan also.
Art Club, 220 South Broad Street. Annual exhibition of paintings and sculpture, gold medal awarded; and special shows by individual artists.
Art Jury, City Hall, Philadelphia, created by Act of Legislature, 1907, providing, “That in every city of first class, there shall be an Art Jury, composed of the Mayor and eight others, of whom shall be, one each, painter, sculptor, architect, and Park Commissioner, to pass upon design and location of all buildings; bridges; arches; fountains; or fixtures to be erected in the city.”
City Parks Association, City Hall.
Darby School of Painting, Fort Washington, Montgomery County. Outdoor classes. Hugh H. Breckenridge, 10 South 18th Street, Philadelphia.
Fairmount Park Art Association, organized, 1871. 320 S. Broad Street.
Pennsylvania Society of Miniature Painters, organized, 1901. Annual fall exhibition, Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts.
Philadelphia Chapter, American Institute of Architects, 1301 Stephen Girard Building; organized, 1869.
The Philadelphia Sketch Club (men), 235 South Camac Street, organized, 1860. Annual fall exhibitions of members’ work; also special exhibitions.
Philadelphia Water-Color Club, Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, annual international exhibitions; also Traveling exhibitions of members’ work.
Plastic Club, women, 247 South Camac Street; organized, 1897. Annual and special exhibitions; lectures, and sketch classes.
T-Square Club, 204 South Quince Street, founded, 1881. Annual architectural exhibition; drafting; decorative painting; modeling; and architecture in coöperation with Society of Beaux-Arts Architects, New York City.
The D’Ascenzo Studios, for Stained Glass, 1604 Summer Street, founded twenty years ago, include designing; painting; firing; and glazing; work is begun and completed, in both modern and antique, with preference for the antique school, for architectural fitness and conventionality; also glass mosaic and mural decoration. D’Ascenzo’s art may be seen in many important churches and buildings in this country; in the Chapel at Valley Forge, and in Philadelphia may be mentioned St. Mark’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Frankford; St. James’ Protestant Episcopal Church, Twenty-second and Walnut Streets; St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church, Twentieth and Locust Streets; Synagogue Rodeph Shalom, Philadelphia.
William Willet and Annie Lee Willet Studios, for Stained Glass, 226 South Eleventh Street, formerly of Pittsburgh. While all the world is deploring the loss of the magnificent old glass in the cathedrals of Europe, here the art of fused glass has been raised to such perfection that their great windows have all that the old work has, of depth, glow, and shadow, under modern conditions of stability; among their notable windows are, the Sanctuary Window, West Point Military Chapel, New York; Proctor Hall, the Graduate School, Princeton, New Jersey, great west window; many in the churches and public buildings of Pittsburgh, Chicago and elsewhere; in and near Philadelphia, in Summit Presbyterian Church, Carpenter and West View Streets, Germantown; St. Michael’s Sanctuary window, High Street, Germantown; John Chambers Memorial Church; The Buchanan Memorial, St. Nathaniel’s Church, Kensington; the Harrison Memorial; Holy Trinity Church, Nineteenth and Walnut; the Leta Sullivan in the Assumption, Strafford.
Notable private art collections in Philadelphia, that may sometimes be seen by writing for permit, which for variety and value, have few peers are:
P. A. B. Widener’s, several hundred choice and rare paintings, mostly masterpieces of great artists of the Renaissance, and modern.
The W. L. Elkins; many fine examples of medieval and modern portraiture, landscape and genre painting.
The John McFadden, best collection of solely eighteenth century English paintings in this country.
The Edward T. Stotesbury, masterpieces of the English School and international contemporary art.
Should these collections accompany the Wilstach, now in Memorial Hall, to the Municipal Art Museum in Fairmount Park, now under construction, it would begin its career with a wealth of paintings, more comprehensive and valuable than any that ever inaugurated a similar institution, not excepting the Louvre, Pitti, Dresden, National in London, and Metropolitan, New York, which grew from small beginnings, thus placing the highest products of art within equal and easy reach of all classes. This Museum will constitute the central feature of a comprehensive plan in progress, at the head of the Parkway, for a real art center, more imposing in scale and impressive in its entire effect than any similar art center in any American City. The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts has been granted a site facing the Fairmount Plaza, also the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art.
Army and Navy
The First City Troop, Armory, Twenty-third Street, above Chestnut; founded in 1778. An exclusive social organization. Oldest military command in the United States in continuous active service; its traditions of active service are as loyally preserved as its rights as escort of the President, and other distinguished men. In the Spanish-American War in 1898, “The Troop” was the first body of cavalry landed at Porto Rico. The “Gentlemen of Philadelphia” met in Independence Hall, November 17, 1774, and formed a company of cavalry called, “The Light Horse of the City of Philadelphia”; they were dismissed by Washington after the Revolution in 1778, and reorganized immediately as the First City Troop; the Troop voted to give the certificate of dismissal, signed by Washington, to their captain, Samuel Morris; the paper is now in possession of the decendants of Elliston P. Morris, of Germantown. Frankford Arsenal, Bridge and Tacony Streets; local station, Bridesburg; open, free, daily, 7.45 A.M. to sunset. Established, 1814; President Madison was at the opening exercises. Lafayette stopped at the Arsenal in 1824. Here are complete small arms cartridge factory equipment; artillery cartridge factory equipment; and machine plant for the manufacture of inspecting instruments; sights for cannon; range finders; and other instruments for fire control at the fortifications, etc. Philadelphia Navy Yard, League Island, about 1000 acres; junction of Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers; deeded to the National Government by the City of Philadelphia in 1868. Open to the public daily between 9.00 A.M. and 4.00 P.M. Established about 1794 on the Delaware River front, at Prime Street. A large number of the old wooden ships of the Navy were built here, such as the ships of the line, Franklin, Pennsylvania and North Carolina; frigates, United States, Raritan, and Guerriere; sloops of war, Vandalia, Germantown, and Dale; screw steamers, Princeton, Wabash, and Lancaster; side wheel steamers, Mississippi and Susquehanna. At present there are two dry docks; shops employ 2000 men; three large barrack buildings for the use of marines stationed at the Yard accommodate 1400 men. Admiral Benson, former Commandant, considers this the best Navy Yard in the Government’s possession, being in the center of coal and iron industries, within short haul, both by rail and water, for all material required by a great navy yard; its nearness to great private shipyards on the Delaware provides skilled mechanics in the art of ship-building, and the fresh water feature, being unique, is of great importance; barnacles accumulated in salt water drop off in fresh water, simply by docking here for short periods. There is also a large Reserve Basin called the Back Channel, where ships out of commission can be laid up until wanted. The berthing facilities may be indefinitely extended by constructing additional sea wall and piers. Fort Mifflin, below mouth of the Schuylkill, has casement dungeons, and earthen banks of early warfare, and was prominent in the Revolutionary War; designed and built by Major Louis de Tousard in 1798. Now, in the magazines, ammunition from government battleships is stored, before they enter the Navy Yard; the magazines are surrounded by poles, on each pole is a lightning rod. United States Naval Asylum, Gray’s Ferry Avenue below Bainbridge Street, classic, marble; has Museum of Uniforms.
Historic Burial Grounds
The earliest were connected with churches; some date almost from the beginning of the city.
Baptist. Blockley Cemetery, Meeting-House Lane, between Lancaster Avenue and Haverford Street; ground given, 1804. Church is at Fifty-third Street and Wyalusing Avenue. Dunker, Germantown, on Germantown Avenue above Sharpnack Street; oldest meeting-house of the German Baptists, or Dunkers, in America; erected, 1770. Burial ground opened, 1793; in it lie Alexander Mack, founder of the sect, and Harriet Livermore, the “Pilgrim Stranger” of Whittier’s “Snow Bound.” Mennonite, Germantown Avenue above Herman Street; church was built, 1770; many early Germantown settlers are buried in the yard. Pennypack, or Lower Dublin, Krewston Road near Pennypack Creek, one mile from Bustleton; here is oldest Baptist church edifice in Pennsylvania, built about 1707; in the old time graveyard are many curious moss covered tombstones.
Friends. When the graves are marked the stones are always small and inconspicuous. Fairhill Meeting, Germantown Avenue and Cambria Street; ground granted by William Penn; a large and beautiful old cemetery and near “Fairhill,” the great Norris estate. The Meeting House, Fourth and Arch Streets, was built in 1804, but the ground was used for burials many years before; it is one of the oldest cemeteries in Philadelphia. Some of the most prominent citizens of very early days lie here with nothing to mark their resting-place; it is computed that twenty thousand persons are interred here.
Jewish. Mikveh Israel, on Spruce Street, near Ninth; ground was granted to Nathan Levy by John Penn in 1738; here lies the beautiful Rebecca Gratz, original of Rebecca in Scott’s “Ivanhoe.” In August, 1913, the little burial ground was opened for the interment of her grandniece, the first burial for thirty years. Mount Sinai, Frankford Avenue, near Bridge Street, has imposing entrance, erected, 1854.
Lutheran. St. Michael’s, Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, joins the church built about 1730; a notable grave, with flat marble stone resting on four columns, is that of Christopher Ludwig, “baker general” to the American army during the Revolution.
Methodist. St. Paul’s, Catharine Street near Sixth. Church is now used as an Italian mission; has a small graveyard.
Presbyterian. Of First and Third Churches, Southwest corner of Fourth and Pine Streets, First Church, Seventh and Locust Streets, has the eastern section. When the First Church abandoned its old Market Street site for the present locality, the bodies were moved whenever possible, and many of the old headstones were inserted in the south wall of the new graveyard. The Third Church, called “Old Pine,” divides the grounds, using the west section; both are most interesting, with many people of note interred, including David Rittenhouse; William Hurry, who is said to have rung the Liberty Bell when proclaiming independence; Dr. William Shippen, Director General of Hospitals during the war for Independence; many Revolutionary soldiers; and Captain Charles Ross of the First City Troop.
Protestant Episcopal. All Saints, Bristol Turnpike, Torresdale. Established 1772-73, when the first church edifice was built. Christ Church has two burialgrounds, one attached to the church on Second Street, North of Market, dating from the earliest days of the church, the other southeast corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, where first interment was made in 1730; graves of Benjamin Franklin and Deborah, his wife, are in the northwest corner; may be seen from Arch Street through an iron railing set in the brick wall; in these graveyards are buried many distinguished Americans; among them Peyton Randolph, first President of the Continental Congress; Commodores Truxton, Biddle, Bainbridge, and Dale; Robert Morris; several signers of the Declaration of Independence; Dr. Benjamin Rush, Dr. Philip Syng Physick, Bishop White, and Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg. Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’), Front and Swanson Streets, south of Christian; church built, 1700, being the oldest church building in Philadelphia; a most interesting graveyard surrounds it; the celebrated ornithologist, Alexander Wilson, is buried here. St. James, Kingsessing, Sixty-eighth Street and Paschall Avenue; church erected, 1762; General Josiah Harmer, of the Revolution, is buried in the graveyard. St. James the Less, Hunting Park Avenue and Clearfield Street; this beautiful little Gothic church, brownstone, built 1847, has a number of fine monuments in the burial ground; John Wanamaker is buried here. St. Luke’s, Germantown Avenue and Coulter Street, church dates from 1818; the famous Philadelphia annalist, John Fanning Watson, is interred in the churchyard. St. Peter’s, southwest corner of Third and Pine Streets; in the graveyard lies the body of Commodore Stephen Decatur, the grave surmounted by an Ionic column supporting an American eagle; other notable names here are Chew, Cadwalader, Mifflin, Binney, Biddle, Peale, Waln, Meade, McCall, Duché, Norris, Kuhn, Montgomery. Trinity, Oxford, near Fox Chase, east of old Second Street Pike; present church dates from 1711; began as a log meeting house, 1698; tombstones date as early as 1708; the inscriptions on some are quaint and original.
Roman Catholic. Holy Trinity, northwest corner of Sixth and Spruce Streets, dates from 1789; on the old tombstones may be deciphered names of many of the early German and French inhabitants of Philadelphia. Stephen Girard was buried here until 1851, later his body was removed to Girard College. Most Holy Redeemer, Richmond Street, opposite Hedley Street, Bridesburg; many of the Redemptorist Fathers are buried here.
Other Notable Burial Grounds
North Cedar Hill, Frankford Avenue corner of Foust Street, incorporated, 1857; a soldiers’ monument to the Civil War soldiers from Frankford is in the older part. Crispin, Holmesburg; contains grave of Thomas Holme, who laid out the city of Philadelphia; plot is under care of the Crispin Association, formed of descendants of Holme. Glenwood, Ridge Avenue and Twenty-seventh Street, opened, 1850, has notable monument of the Scott Legion Association, formed among the surviving soldiers of the Mexican War. Greenwood, Asylum Pike and Arrott Street, Frankford; established, 1869, by the benevolent order of the Knights of Pythias, as a burial place for members and their families; occupies the “Mount Airy” estate, once residence of Commodore Stephen Decatur. Hood, or “The Lower Burial Ground,” on Germantown Avenue at Logan Street, opened in 1693, having been presented to the borough of Germantown by Jan Streepers. Many early settlers of Germantown lie here; among them Frederic William Post, the Moravian missionary to the Indians, and Condy Raguet, founder of the Saving Fund in Philadelphia; in 1847, William Hood built the front entrance, of Pennsylvania marble, the wall and railing. Ivy Hill, East Mount Airy Avenue, above Stenton Avenue, chartered, 1867; about 80 acres; the Second Baptist Church has removed to Ivy Hill about 300 bodies from its old burial place on New Market Street; an imposing monument is here in memory of David Lyle, Chief Engineer of the Volunteer Fire Department from 1859-67. North Laurel Hill, East bank of Schuylkill River and Ridge Avenue, organized, 1835; formerly “Laurel,” country seat of Joseph Sims. “Fairy Hill,” seat of Pepper family, now Central Laurel Hill, and “Harleigh,” William Rawle’s place, now South Laurel Hill; historic dead and artistic monuments fill these cemeteries; Commodores Murray and Hull, General George Gordon Meade, and Mrs. Cornelius Stevenson, “Peggy Shippen” of the Ledger, are among those who lie here; the Lea Memorial, sculptor A. Sterling Calder, is very beautiful, the chapel is early English. Just across the Schuylkill River, on Belmont Avenue, at Pencoyd Station, is West Laurel Hill, opened in 1869. General Herman Haupt is among those buried here. Monument, Broad Street and Montgomery Avenue, was laid out by Dr. John A. Elkinton in 1836; an obelisk monument, on a pedestal, erected, 1859, in honor of Washington and Lafayette, was designed by John Sartain, artist, who is buried near base of shaft. Mount Moriah, Sixty-second Street and Kingsessing Avenue, opened, 1855; has grave of Betsy Ross, over which a flag floats perpetually. Mount Peace, Lehigh Avenue and Thirty-first Street, was originally country seat of the Ralston family, known as Mount Peace estate. Mount Vernon, Ridge and Lehigh Avenues, opposite Laurel Hill, chartered, 1856; the Gardel monument was long considered handsomest in the country. National Cemetery, Haines Street and Limekiln Pike, land acquired by the United States Government in 1885, it is well wooded, and the grounds are laid out with flowering plants; about 2700 Union soldiers are buried here; their graves marked by long rows of small granite slabs, bearing their names and the States from which they came. Soldiers of three wars lie here; a granite monument, erected by the United States, marks the burial place of 184 Confederate soldiers and sailors. Palmer, at Palmer, Belgrade, and Memphis Streets, owes its origin to Anthony Palmer; in 1730, he purchased a large tract of land in “The Northern Liberties,” on which he laid out a town and named it Kensington; his daughter carried out his wishes, and bequeathed ground for a burial place for those living in Kensington. Ronaldson’s, Tenth and Fitzwater Streets, now neglected, was founded by James Ronaldson in 1826 as a burial place in which persons of moderate means could find a grave without any of the restrictions which attended interments in the churchyards; he gave the ground, almost a city square, decorated it with trees and shrubbery; so beautifully was it kept that it was considered “The model burial place of the City,” until the opening of Laurel Hill. Upper Burial Ground, or Ax’s, Germantown Avenue near Washington Lane. John Frederick Ax was caretaker from 1724-56; many early settlers are buried here, the oldest known grave being that of Cornelius Tyson, who died in 1716; there are also graves of some American soldiers and officers, killed in the Battle of Germantown; over them, John Fanning Watson placed a marble headstone. Woodlands, Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue, was in early times the country seat of William Hamilton, known as “The Woodlands”; acquired by Woodlands Cemetery Company in 1840. Many distinguished men and women are buried here, among them Commodore Thomas Stewart, who commanded the Constitution in 1812; General John Stewart, Major Generals D. B. Birney and Abercrombie of the Civil War; Rembrandt Peale; William K. Hewitt and P. F. Rothermel, Artists; John Davenport, Actor; Colonel Thomas A. Scott and J. Edgar Thomson; Frank and Louise Stockton; Dr. S. Weir Mitchell and Anthony J. Drexel.
Historic Churches in Philadelphia
Among the eight hundred and five churches in Philadelphia, are:
The Philadelphia Baptist, whose Association celebrated its two hundredth and tenth anniversary in 1917. First Church, Seventeenth Street below Chestnut, open daily, is a consistent example of Byzantine architecture with American modifications; stone; architect, Edgar V. Seeler. Windows made by Heinecke & Bowen are copies of the Byzantine leaded glass; lights and shadows in drapery are all done with leaded strips of glass, not painted. Temple, Broad and Berks Streets, famous on account of its pastor, Rev. Russell H. Conwell, was dedicated, 1901; at that time it was the largest church edifice in the United States, excepting the Mormon Temple at Salt Lake City; auditorium seats 3135 people: Romanesque, with two low towers on the front, surmounted by large copper domes, which give an Oriental touch; architect, Thomas Lonsdale. Fine rose window in front, said to have been made by John LaFarge; other windows are by J. & R. Lamb and R. S. Groves: the Hope-Jones organ, built by the Rudolph Wurlitzer Company, is one of the largest in this country; it has all the orchestral accompaniments. Tabernacle, Chestnut and Fortieth Streets, Gothic, stone, has a window by William Willet. There are about one hundred Baptist churches in Philadelphia.
Christian Science. First Church of Christ Scientist, Walnut Street near Fortieth; Spanish architecture.
Congregational. Central, Eighteenth and Green Streets, Gothic, stone, built in 1872; architect, D. Supplee; organized in 1864; first services were held in old Concert Hall, 1217 Chestnut Street, afterwards used as first Free Library Building; sermon “Recognition,” was preached by Rev. Henry Ward Beecher; other sermons of early days, by Richard S. Storrs, D.D. About nine or ten churches of this denomination are in Philadelphia.
Friends’ or Quaker Meeting-Houses.
“What dignity breathes from the lofty space
And amplitude of hospitality
In these old-fashioned Quaker shrines!
Most friendly seems the long, high, sturdy roof,
Most friendly the all-welcoming old walls
Seen through the sheltering trees.
O mighty oaks and noble sycamores,
With trunks moss-silvered and with lichened limb,
Breathe soft to me the storied memories
And treasured records of the long rich years
That blessed the meeting-houses.”
(From “Old Meeting-Houses,”
by John Russell Hayes.)
For more than one hundred years there has been no change in the general style of architecture; before that time, the earliest meeting-house in Philadelphia, at Second and Market Streets, was built with a central lantern or cupola; probably copied from a meeting-house of similar form in Burlington, New Jersey, built, 1682; where the yearly meeting for New Jersey and Pennsylvania was first held: later it met alternately at Philadelphia and Burlington, but since 1750 in Philadelphia, Fourth and Arch Streets. One of the most interesting old meeting-houses, built in 1696, is at Merion, near Narberth Station, Pennsylvania Railroad, in which William Penn preached; another, that he attended, is the old Haverford, built in the early eighteenth century, near Cobb’s Creek, opposite St. Dennis Roman Catholic Church. Radnor and Plymouth are also interesting old houses; all these last named are now owned by the Hicksite Branch of Quakers, who also own over seventy other meeting-houses throughout the state. Among those owned by the Orthodox Branch within Philadelphia are the Fourth and Arch Streets, not only the most important, but of great charm architecturally; it is very large and stands on ground originally given by William Penn to George Fox, and by the latter to Friends in America; and may be taken as typical of the later and best Quaker architecture; built in 1804, following the style of the pre-Revolutionary days of the houses just named, but adapted in material and size to the increased numbers worshiping within; it is of brick, set in ample grounds, with abundant shade; the ground about it, and much also covered now by the building and by Arch Street, is a very old burial ground, filled over several times. James Logan is buried under the pavement of Arch Street. Twelfth Street Meeting-House, brick, built in 1812, is second in importance, and one of the most beautiful bits in old Philadelphia. The oak timbers in its roof are said to have come from the “Great Meeting-House,” which succeeded that with the cupola at Second and Market Streets; oak timbers are also exposed with good effect in the upper room of the Arch Street house; the two houses are of the same general type and severely plain, but form, together with that at Sixth and Noble Streets, a most dignified trio of places for worship; remarkable for true proportion and dignity of outline, they are typical of the wealth and solidity of the Friends at their most flourishing period. The Meeting House, Sixth and Noble Streets, known as “North Meeting,” once accommodating a large congregation, has been reduced in members by removals; the Yearly Meeting has therefore taken over its use as an adjunct to the settlement work, carried on by Friends at “Noble House.”
Jewish. Rosh Hashana, or the Jewish New Year’s Day, is the oldest festival celebrated in the civilized world, 1917 will usher in the year 5678; it commences the great series of fall holidays: ten days later is “Yom Kippur,” the Day of Atonement, most sacred of the year, when the Jews fast from sunset to sunset and attend the synagogues, and a week later “Succoth,” corresponding to our Thanksgiving Day, which lasts a week. The principal synagogues are Adath-Jeshurun, Broad Street above Diamond, Egyptian; limestone and brick; architects, Churchman, Thomas & Molitar, has leaded glass windows by Nicolo D’Ascenzo. Keneseth Israel, Broad Street above Columbia Avenue, Italian Renaissance, brick with limestone trimmings; architect, Hickman. Mikveh Israel, Broad and York Streets, organized, 1747; moved from Seventh Street near Arch; French Renaissance, limestone; architects, Pitcher & Tachau. Rodeph Shalom, southeast corner of Broad and Mt. Vernon Streets, Moorish, sandstone; built, 1869; architects, Furness & Evans; has leaded glass windows by Nicolo D’Ascenzo.
Lutheran. The Theological Seminary of Philadelphia, 7301 Germantown Avenue, was founded in 1864; removed to present location, 1889; site, residence of Chief Justice Allen; afterwards a military school of some distinction, “Mount Airy College.” The administration building was erected by James Gowen for a residence in 1848, and adapted to the wants of the Seminary; on the grounds are twelve buildings, including Krauth Memorial Library, perpendicular Gothic, stone, built, 1908; contains portraits; the Refectory, once residence of the Miller family, built, 1792, colonial; and the Ashmead-Schaeffer Memorial Chapel, Gothic, stone. St. Michael’s, Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, first church, built, 1730; British soldiers took refuge in the church and demolished the organ during the Battle of Germantown; corner-stone of present church laid, 1896. Old St. Johns, Race Street between Fifth and Sixth, first English Lutheran Church in America, colonial, brick; congregation organized in 1806, largely through efforts of General Peter Muhlenberg; contains a fine oil portrait by John Neagle, painted in 1853, of Dr. Philip F. Mayer, first pastor 1806-58; and woodcarvings in front of the gallery by William Rush. Zion (German), Franklin Street above Race, Romanesque, brownstone, built, 1870, moved from southeast corner of Fourth and Cherry, founded 1766; a memorial service was held here for Washington in 1799, by General Charles Lee. The Mary J. Drexel Home and Philadelphia Motherhouse of Deaconesses, Twenty-first Street and South College Avenue, modified Gothic with numerous towers, brick trimmed with sandstone, built, 1888; provides a training school for Deaconesses of the Lutheran Church; home for the aged and a children’s hospital; a Gothic chapel on the second floor, has altar cloths from Neuendettelsau, Bavaria; and stained glass by Meyer, Munich; portraits of the Lankenau and Drexel families are here, and an Italian marble bust of Mr. Lankenau by Moses Ezekiel of Rome.
Methodist. Saint George’s, 229 North Fourth Street, oldest Methodist church in the world, used continuously for worship; dedicated, 1769; Bishop Francis Asbury preached his first sermon in America here; three memorial tablets mark the front: to John Dickens, founder of the Methodist Book Concern, buried rear of the church, in 1798; to Ezekiel Cooper, his successor, buried in front, and one commemorating the first Methodist Conference in America, held in this church July 14, 1773. Calvary, Forty-eighth Street and Baltimore Avenue, Gothic, stone, has mural painting, “Sermon on the Mount,” by H. Hanley Parker, and two Tiffany windows. Other Methodist Episcopal churches with good architecture are, Arch Street, Broad and Arch Streets, Gothic, white marble, and Grace, Broad and Master Streets, Renaissance.
Presbyterian. First Church, Seventh and Locust Streets, facing Washington Square; oldest Presbyterian Church in Philadelphia, founded, 1699; present building erected, 1820, classic, brick, rough cast; with Ionic porch; architect, Theophilus P. Chandler: contains Paxton memorial window by Frederick Wilson, interesting old tablets, and a copy of Calvin’s “Institutes.” Second Church, Twenty-first and Walnut Streets, French Gothic, with early English detail; erected, 1872; architect, Henry Sims; Richmond granite is used in the base, the walls are of Trenton stone, Cleveland sandstone for tracery of windows and moulding of doors, with red sandstone, blue sandstone, and green serpentine for special parts, in contrasts of color and decorative effects: interior is faced with buff-colored brick imported from Raubon, Wales: the richly ornamented pulpit is of Caen stone. Windows, a double one, by John LaFarge; seven representing old Testament subjects, by Tiffany; and five apse windows from England. Scotts, Broad Street below Morris, founded, 1766: third oldest organization in the Philadelphia Presbytery; is still under its original charter; original church was at Fourth and Bainbridge Streets, later on at Spruce Street above Third; Louis Philippe lived in the parsonage during his residence in Philadelphia in 1796; John Purdon, father of Purdon’s Digest, was its first elder; President John Adams attended the church. Old Pine Street Church, Fourth and Pine Streets, classic, brick, rough-cast, with Corinthian porch; erected, 1857, one of the walls being that of the original church built in 1768; the first pastor, George Duffield, was chaplain of all the Pennsylvania militia, and also served as chaplain of the First Continental Congress after Jacob Duché; he was with Washington during the retreat through New Jersey; was in the battles of Princeton and Trenton, and the British offered a price of 50 pounds sterling for his head; he is buried under the central aisle of the lecture room, and his portrait is in Independence Hall: John Adams, when President, was a communicant here; when the British occupied the city, they used this church as a hospital; pews and other woodwork were burned as fuel, and later the church was used by the dragoons to stable their horses. Holland Memorial, Broad and Federal Streets, Romanesque; buff Massillon stone, with red sandstone trimmings, from the Ballaclunyle quarries of Scotland; architect, David S. Grendell; windows by Tiffany, in the south arcade, are from originals by Frederick Wilson; other windows are by Alfred Godwin and Maitland & Armstrong; there are four large rose windows, in one, the patriarch Joshua stands in the center, clad in full armor; color scheme is based upon the rose window of Saint Chapelle, Paris; makers, William and Annie Lee Willet: under each window is a group of five arcade windows, some of them copies from originals of Sir Edwin Burne-Jones, for windows in Brighton and Salisbury Cathedrals. Tabernacle, Thirty-seventh and Chestnut Streets, is one of the finest Gothic church edifices in Philadelphia, in decorative English style, with tower 130 feet high, erected, 1886; granite, with Indiana limestone for tracery of windows and doors; no wood being used in its construction, it thus resembles the cathedrals of the old world; chapel is connected with the manse by a cloistered porch. West Arch Street, Eighteenth and Arch Streets, Roman classic, with dome 170 feet above the ground, stone, plastered; has fine Corinthian porch. Market Square, Germantown, founded, 1738: President Washington worshiped here, while living opposite in the old Morris house, during the yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia in 1793; during the battle of Germantown, a battalion of Virginians, prisoners of the English, were lodged in this church; the old bell, cast, 1725, which was in the shingle roof steeple of the old church, is still intact, and preserved as a relic; also the “Trumpet angels in their gold array,” part of the original organ from Holland: present building, French Gothic, stone, was erected in 1886.
The Witherspoon Building, Walnut Street below Broad, has sculpture by A. Stirling Calder and Samuel Murray.
Protestant Episcopal. St. Alban’s, Olney, consecrated, 1915; decorated French Gothic; buttresses run up to above the cornice line, ending in gables with crockets and finials; there is a belfry tower and porch; interior lines are very beautiful; the high arches and lofty piers give an impression of great dignity and simplicity, well adapted for rendering the services, with all the accompaniment of advanced churchmanship; architect, George T. Pearson. Christ Church, Second Street north of Market; first Protestant Episcopal Church in the province; hours of service, September to July, Sundays 10.00 A.M., 11.00 A.M., 3.30 P.M., open daily 9.00 A.M. to 3.00 P.M.; founded in 1695, under a provision in the original charter of King Charles II to William Penn. John Penn, last male member of this line, is buried near the steps of the pulpit. Present building, Georgian, erected 1747; Dr. John Kearsley, Building Director; the old roof, its wooden balustrade with carved spindles, and the steeple are ever of interest to architects and antiquarians.
Here the colonial governors had their state pew, marked by coat of arms, bearing the monogram of William and Mary; the parish was subsidized by King William III, William of Orange; Communion silver presented in 1709 by Queen Anne; baptismal font dates from 1695, and was used for the baptism of Bishop White in infancy. The chime of bells pealed forth the Declaration of Independence, in response to the Liberty Bell, July 8, 1776; they were made in England, and came over in the same ship with the Liberty Bell, were taken to Allentown with the Liberty Bell, and subsequently rehung; are referred to by Longfellow in “Evangeline.” George and Martha Washington regularly occupied pew 58 from 1790-97; it was also the official pew of John Adams while President, and was used by Lafayette in 1824; Franklin had pew 70, still used by his descendants; Robert Morris’ pew was 52; Francis Hopkinson’s, 65. General Charles Lee, of the Continental Army, is interred beside the southwest door, and near by is General Hugh Mercer; Rt. Rev. William White, D.D., first Bishop of Pennsylvania and long Presiding Bishop of the United States, is interred before the chancel rail, and his Episcopal chair is beside the altar. The church was organized; its constitution framed; and the amended Prayer Book adopted in this church, in 1785; Bishop White and Provost William Smith, D.D., were the Committee for revising and altering the liturgy of the English Prayer Book, for use in America. Rev. Jacob Duché was rector for many years. Windows illustrate the history of the Christian Church; made by Heaton, Butler and Bains. St. Clement’s, Twentieth and Cherry Streets, Norman Gothic, brownstone, built, 1857; architect, John Notman; new roof of nave, apse, and high altar; choir and lady chapel; architect, Horace Wells Sellers; the sanctuary is beautifully designed, with effect heightened by a magnificent reredos; artist, Frederick Wilson of Briarcliff, New York, leaded glass of apse, and lady chapel, by Alfred Godwin,
Philadelphia. St. Elizabeth’s, corner of Sixteenth and Mifflin Streets, early Italian, with high Campanile; medieval exterior and interior give an exact idea of old Italian churches; brick; architects, Bailey and Bassett; the choir is raised eight steps from the nave, giving view of the crypt, and dignified elevation of the high altar; over the altar is a copy of Correggio’s “Marriage of St. Catharine”; fine jeweled door of the Pyx on the altar; Lady chapel has an altar of richly carved and gilded wood, finished with a high reredos, copy of an original in Santo Spirito, Florence; paintings set in are copies of works by Fra Filipo Lippi. Church of the Evangelist, now part of Graphic Sketch Club, Catharine Street above Seventh, brick, is a gem of medievalism; Italian Basilican style; red brick, relieved by stone trimmings; pillars of portico rest on backs of lions; architects, Furness & Evans; frescoes by Nicolo d’Ascenzo and by Robert Henri; original compositions and adaptations of great paintings in Italy; font, late English Gothic, with a richly carved stone; above it is the Strasbourg window, containing a figure of the prophet, Jonas; this piece of glass, before the Franco-Prussian War, was in the Cathedral of Strasbourg, and was taken from one of the windows after the Germans had directed their fire on the church and smashed the glass: paving of the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre is of Mercer tiles; Rood screen of polished marble, is modeled after that at St. Marco, Venice; Altar rail modeled after that in a chapel at Monreale, Sicily; the reredos, of the high altar, is a copy of a famous altar-piece by Carlo Crivelli; original now in the National Gallery, London. Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’), on land given by Swan Swanson, corner of Front and Swanson Streets, near Christian Street; formerly Wecacoa (Indian name for pleasant place); was dedicated in 1700. Georgian architecture, with steep pitched roof; brick work of walls, Flemish bond, headers coated with vitreous, blue black glaze, doubtless the arch bricks in the kiln; great square windows. Erected by the Swedish Lutherans; after the Revolution, care of the Swedish churches was committed to the American Church, and became part of the Diocese of Pennsylvania. This congregation first worshiped in a block house, used also as a fortress from 1677; the font used then is still in the present church. Holy Trinity, Nineteenth and Walnut Streets; Norman Romanesque; architect, John Notman; has fine memorial windows. St. James, Twenty-second and Walnut Streets, founded, 1807; present building, English decorated Gothic with sculptured band around the tower, from which rises the graceful memorial spire; Ohio green sandstone and granite, built, 1870; architect, G. W. Hewitt: pulpit; altar; reredos of fine perpendicular work in Caen stone, rich in ornamentation and sculpture, which also extends around the chancel, with two marble pilasters having delicately carved capitals; all designed by Cram, Goodhue and Ferguson; mosaics of the twelve apostles, in the walls of the nave, suggest those of the Popes in the Church of St. Paul, outside the walls, in Rome; leaded glass by Nicolo d’Ascenzo; font has a bas-relief in white marble, angel scattering flowers, made in Florence, Italy. St. James the Less, near main entrance to Laurel Hill Cemetery; thirteenth century Gothic; brownstone; once said to be the choicest specimen of church architecture in the United States. St. John Chrysostom, corner Twenty-eighth Street and Susquehanna Avenue, almost an exact copy of St. Stephen’s Church, London, designed by Sir Christopher Wren; Renaissance, granite; architects, Bailey & Bassett; adapted to a square lot, the interior shows form of Greek cross, with inner octagon; rosettes and decorations of the dome are graceful and beautiful; columns, placed on rather high pedestals, are Vermont marble, with very beautiful veining, surmounted by Corinthian capitals: the church is almost entirely white, with no stained glass, and gives an impression of complete harmony. St. Mark’s, Locust Street above Sixteenth, built, 1849; fine specimen of fourteenth century, decorated Gothic, brownstone; plans furnished by the Ecclesiological Society of Cambridge, England; modified by John Notman; altar and reredos are richly carved stone; also the pulpit and choir screen; notable features are the rood beam, with cross and figures; carved sanctuary door; choir and clergy stalls; the altar at head of north aisle is alabaster. Lady chapel, erected, 1900, contains a silver altar of elaborate magnificence, probably finest in the world, of the same style as the one at Florence, Italy, by Pallajnoli, but richer, containing twelve scenes from the life of the Virgin, and studded with precious stones, some four hundred emeralds, sapphires, and opals, a monumental work, which will remain a very splendid presentation of twentieth century English ecclesiastical art; altar rail is silver and bronze; stained glass windows in the church are notable; the sacred vessels and vestments surpass any in the Anglican Communion, in their extraordinary richness; silver processional cross is supposed to be that of the Palermo Cathedral, in 1520; among old vestments are the coronation robes of Louis XV from Rheims Cathedral, of light blue velvet, heavily embroidered with twenty-two karat gold bullion. The first curate was the Rev. Morgan Dix, ordained priest in this church, who became the famous rector of Trinity Church, New York. St. Mary’s, 3916 Locust Street, on ground given by William Hamilton, of Woodlands; first Protestant Episcopal Church in West Philadelphia, organized, 1820; frame church erected, 1824; Bishop White laid the corner-stone; present building, Gothic, consecrated, 1890. Memorial Gothic altar, retable, and reredos are from famous studios in Rome, Italy, said to be the finest example of ecclesiastical mosaic work in this country: windows are from London, Paris, Munich, and Philadelphia. Rev. Thomas C. Yarnall celebrated his fiftieth anniversary as rector of St. Mary’s in 1894. St. Paul’s, east side of Third Street, below Walnut; classic; erected, 1761; third Protestant Episcopal Church in Philadelphia and largest in the province; now headquarters of the City Mission. The General Convention met here in 1814, when Bishop Moore of Virginia was consecrated; Bishop Hobart preached the sermon. St. Paul’s Club, 411 Spruce Street, makes a specialty of giving aid to the down and out drunkard, sobering him up, fitting him for a job, and getting him one; in the five years of its existence to 1917, it has registered 45,000 transient visitors and temporary guests on its books. St. Peter’s, corner of Third and Pine Streets, second church erected in Philadelphia, fine example of Georgian architecture, in beauty of line; brick; built, 1761; tower and spire, 218 feet high, were added, 1842; stone finials of gateposts were cut in England; present wall erected in 1784, after the old wooden fence had been taken for fuel by the British. Interior still retains the high-backed box pews, President Washington’s among them, pew 41; the pulpit, surmounting the clerk’s desk, soars upward at the far end, opposite the altar; Provost William Smith preached the consecration sermon; very beautiful stained glass by Myeres, London; remarkable for richness of color and design; many interesting relics in the church’s history are in the sacristy. Church of the Saviour, Thirty-eighth Street above Chestnut, architect, C. M. Burns, has a splendidly impressive chancel; decoration by Edwin Howland Blashfield and furnishings are memorial to Anthony J. Drexel. Memorial window by William and Annie Lee Willet, “Christ and Nicodemus,” has strong decorative quality and richness of color. South Memorial, Church of the Advocate, Eighteenth and Diamond Streets, French Gothic, suggested by Amiens Cathedral; built, 1897; stone; architect, Charles M. Burns; interior profusely adorned with carving, and sixty-five stained glass windows by Clayton and Bell, London. St. Stephen’s, Tenth Street above Chestnut; founded, 1823; early Gothic, with two octagonal towers; stone; designed by William Strickland; contains notable sculpture; the Burd Memorial, “Angel of the Resurrection,” finest Italian marble, by Carl Steinhauser, native of Bremen, who studied in Rome under Thorwaldsen; and recumbent effigy of Colonel Burd; also font by Steinhauser, represents three cherubs supporting on their wings a large marble bowl, with sculpture in relief; the church, decorated by Frank Furness, with color, rich and unusual, sets off admirably the beauty of the memorial marbles; the stately reredos, with its brilliant Venetian mosaic picture, “The Last Supper,” was made in 1889, by Salviati, Venice, from cartoons by Henry Holiday, London, and under his own supervision; large double window in transept also by Holiday; a Tiffany window is, “Christ Among the Lilies,” the only flower He mentions in the Evangels, and accepted as symbol of the resurrection; the window, showing the angel sitting on the edge of the tomb with partly unfolded wings, is copy of a picture by Axel Ender, over the altar of a church in Molde, Northern Norway; near the reredos is “The Angel of Purity,” sculptor Augustus Saint Gaudens, which suggests his “Amor, Caritas,” owned by the French Government, now in the Luxembourg; here is also a bas-relief by Charles Grafley of Dr. David D. Wood, organist of St. Stephen’s for forty-six years; the great organ was built by C. T. Haskell, Philadelphia, in consultation with Dr. Wood; pipes were voiced in the church, resulting in a sweetness and just proportion of tone; its echo organ, located about two hundred feet away, is in the loft over the chancel. Parish house is on site of the old graveyard, tombstones are in pavement of cloister; architect, George C. Mason, Jr. Trinity, Oxford, Oxford Road and Second Street Pike; colonial; founded, 1698. Present brick church erected 1711-12; the transepts and tower later; was the first house of worship in Pennsylvania, owned and occupied by the Quakers, and presented by them to the Church of England, for Episcopal use and worship. Chalice and paten sent by Queen Anne, engraved “Anne Regina,” 1713; she died in 1714, it is probably the last one she sent to America, and has been used in every Holy Communion for over two centuries. Tiffany altar window, “The Baptism of Christ.” The altar, of walnut and oak, is beautifully carved. This is the mother of many flourishing missions, St. Luke’s, Germantown; Our Saviour, Jenkintown; St. Mark’s, Frankford; Emmanuel, Holmesburg; Holy Trinity, Rockledge; and Trinity Chapel, Crescentville; today it stands, vigorous and full of life, in its old age, greatly enlarged and carefully restored; the utmost care has been taken to disturb none of the old walls, and to keep the historic features intact; the glass, in the body of the church, is an opaque yellow, harmonizing with the colonial buff of the walls and barrel ceiling. The churchyard is of great interest, one stone, dated, 1686, is said to mark the grave of an Indian.
The Reformed Church in the United States, which brought its beautiful and significant emblem, “The lily among thorns,” from the fatherland, is derived from the Reformed Churches of Switzerland and Germany; these churches are largely to be found in the counties east of the Susquehanna River. William Penn’s mother, Margaret Jasper, was reared in this faith; noted members who came here were Michael Schlatter, in 1746, from St. Gall, Switzerland; sent to establish an ecclesiastical organization; he was practically the first superintendent of public instruction in Pennsylvania; died, 1790, and was buried in the Reformed graveyard in Philadelphia, now Franklin Square; Colonel Henry Bouquet, from Switzerland, proved the saviour of the early settlers in Pontiac’s war and obtained the restoration of all captives to their homes; three hundred and seventy were brought back; and Baron von Steuben, who had served on the staff of Frederick the Great at the siege of Prague, drilled our men into efficiency to cope with the British regulars; later he commanded at the Siege of Yorktown, which he pressed so vigorously that Cornwallis was obliged to surrender. Zion Reformed Church at Allentown sheltered our Liberty Bell and the Christ Church bells during the Revolution; among their thirty churches in Philadelphia and vicinity, of Gothic architecture, stone, are the First Church, Fiftieth and Locust Streets; oldest of this denomination in Philadelphia; moved from Tenth and Wallace Streets; Palatinate, Fifty-sixth Street and Girard Avenue; St. John’s, Fortieth and Spring Garden Streets; and Trinity, northeast corner of Broad and Venango Streets. There are also five churches of the Dutch Reformed.
Roman Catholic. The churches of this denomination are all notable for good architecture, interior sumptuous, ecclesiastical decoration. Cathedral of SS. Peter and Paul, finely situated on Logan Square and the Parkway; Classic Renaissance, brownstone; built 1846-64; architect, Napoleon LeBrun; “The Crucifixion,” back of the high altar, genuine fresco painting, is by Constantine Brumidi, who, about the same time, executed important decorations, in the same medium, in the dome of the Capitol at Washington; on entering the church, in chapels on both sides of the door, are mural decorations by Henry J. Thouron, said, by high authority, to be the best mural paintings in the United States; the first was placed in 1911 as a fitting background for a statue of the Virgin and Child by Louis Madrazzi, which Mr. Thouron brought from Paris as a gift to the Cathedral; in the north transept is a painting, “The Dead Christ,” attributed to Titian; a work of art of exceptional merit is a large ivory crucifix, the master work of Carlo Pazenti, an Augustinian lay brother, about 1840; acquired for the church, with much difficulty, by the venerable John N. Neumann, fourth Bishop of Philadelphia; when, during the Civil War, the Sanitary Fair was being held in Logan Square, Archbishop Wood, then Bishop Wood, exhibited this beautiful work daily, for the benefit of the great cause; it was returned each evening to its place in the Cathedral. St. John the Evangelist, Thirteenth Street above Chestnut, for a short time the cathedral; early English, Gothic; interior, perpendicular Gothic; cornerstone laid by Bishop Kenrick, third Bishop of Philadelphia; church opened April 8, 1832: a flagellation of Christ, much darkened, by Garacci, was presented to the church by Joseph Bonaparte soon after its completion: Mozart’s “Requiem Mass” was rendered, for the first time in America, at St. John’s Church, and the music there today, is said to be the best church music in Philadelphia. St. Patrick’s, Twentieth Street below Locust, originated in a frame church in 1839, on east side of Nineteenth Street near Spruce; the seventy-fifth anniversary was celebrated in 1916, was attended by many notable dignitaries of the church. Windows by d’Ascenzo. St. Francis de Sales, Forty-seventh Street and Springfield Avenue, Romanesque, with Byzantine details; built, 1907-10; architect, Henry D. Dagit, Philadelphia; the leaded glass is particularly beautiful; windows are of the antique school and extremely rich in color, including four rose windows, designed and made by Nicolo d’Ascenzo, Philadelphia. Four old historic churches rather near together, St. Joseph’s, on Willing’s Alley, south of Walnut, below Fourth Street; built on site of first Roman Catholic Church in Pennsylvania, established by a member of the “Society of Jesus” from Maryland, in 1731; St. Mary’s, Fourth Street, above Spruce; St. Augustine’s, Fourth Street, above Race; and Holy Trinity, northwest corner of Sixth and Spruce Streets, had their origin in the eighteenth century, the first two long before the Revolution. St. Augustine’s is on site of a building erected in 1801, by the hermits of the Order of St. Augustine; it had William Rush’s wooden sculpture “The Crucifixion,” but this was burned in 1847. Holy Trinity, German, is of somewhat earlier date; the wayfarer who now looks in on any of them may readily picture them as they were over one hundred years ago. In St. Mary’s Church is a very fine pieta by Boucher, a modern French sculptor.
Swedenborgian, or The New Church, grew out of the teachings of Emmanuel Swedenborg, scholar, traveler, scientist, and religious writer, born in Stockholm, Sweden, in 1688. A school of the New Church was started in Philadelphia in 1854. First “New Jerusalem” Church, Twenty-second and Chestnut Streets, Gothic, brownstone, was built in 1884; architect, Theophilus P. Chandler. Connected with it is a free library and reading room.
Unitarian. First Church, Chestnut Street near Twenty-second, built, 1885; was organized, 1796, in a room of the University of Pennsylvania; in 1797 Dr. Joseph Priestly delivered an address to this Society, and enrolled himself among the members. William Henry Furness was ordained pastor in 1825, in the church at the corner of Tenth and Locust Streets; present church contains some interesting memorials, Dr. Furness, bust by M. Launt Thompson, New York; circular window to Dr. Priestly by John LaFarge; other windows are English; and some are by Tiffany, New York. Girard Avenue Unitarian, Girard Avenue above Fifteenth Street, organized by the Rev. Charles G. Ames, in the late seventies; Gothic, granite. Germantown Unitarian, corner of Chelten Avenue and Greene Street, built, 1866; Gothic; architect, Frank Furness; has good stained glass windows, made by Heaton, Butler and Bayne, London. Rev. Samuel Longfellow, brother of the poet, was pastor for some years; also the Rev. Charles G. Ames.
Fairmount Park
On east and west banks of the Schuylkill River, and Wissahickon Creek; second largest municipal park in the world, 3597 acres; its only superior in acreage being Blue Hills Park, Boston, with 4906 acres. The ravines, “unkempt and wild,” all have springs of clear, cold water. Main entrance at Green Street is also approach to the proposed Philadelphia Museum of Art, on a raised terrace, like a Greek Temple, facing the Parkway; Horace Trumbauer, C. C. Zantzinger, and Charles L. Borie, Jr., architects; part of the plan for development of Philadelphia within a radius of thirty miles: here also is the “Washington Monument,” sculptor, Professor Siemering of Berlin, erected by the “Society of the Cincinnati.” Continue drive, to the Schuylkill River, proposed Ericsson Memorial, Paul B. Cret, architect, was commissioned to prepare a design for development of the entire basin, from boat houses to Spring Garden Street, including the Aquarium, formed, 1911, using the classic marble buildings of the old waterworks; it is said to be the best equipped in the world; walls of exhibition tanks are covered with calcareous tufa, rock shell formation from the Ohio River Valley, full of holes, in which deep water vegetation is planted to suggest sea bottom; Arctic and tropical life have their own temperatures; also hatching rooms. This tract and Rocky Hill, of the old waterworks, five acres, between Green and Callowhill Streets, was named by William Penn, Fair Mount; it was used as the terminal pillar of the British redoubts, stretching across the city from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, in 1777-78. Acquired by the city in 1812 as site for the city waterworks, moved from Centre Square, for park purposes. This was the beginning of Fairmount Park; to beautify the grounds, walks were laid out up to the reservoir, and the rock decorated with sculpture, chiefly woodcarving, by William Rush, including the groups, “The Schuylkill in an Improved State,” and “The Schuylkill in Chains,” which are still over the entrances to the wheel houses; “Justice” and “Wisdom,” full-length statues, carved for decoration of the triumphal arch in front of the State House at Lafayette’s reception in 1824, are now in the hatching room; and “Leda and the Swan,” modeled in 1812 from Miss Vanuxen, a Philadelphia belle, a bronze reproduction is here now. Boat houses are of decorative construction. The Schuylkill Navy, said to be the most complete association devoted to rowing in the world, is the center for test trials of skill and endurance, of national interest; it is known as the American Henley; the course above Columbia Avenue bridge is ideal for oarsmen, and the banks rise like seats of an auditorium. On the main drive from the Aquarium are the Lincoln Monument, bronze, sculptor, Randolph Rogers, made in Rome, cast in Munich; Iron Spring, and a bronze group, “Lioness Carrying to Her Young a Wild Boar,” sculptor, August Cain; near Brown Street entrance is bronze group, “Silenus and the Infant Bacchus”; original in the Louvre, credited to Praxiteles; and the bronze group, “The Wrestlers,” from original antique in the Royal Gallery, Florence; both reproduced by Barbedienne, Paris.
Lemon Hill Mansion, built by Henry Pratt about 1800, near site of favorite home of Robert Morris. “The Hills,” planned by Major L’Enfant, built, 1773; the property was bought by the city in 1844, and dedicated, in 1855, as a Public Park. Northwest on main drive is Grant’s Cabin, headquarters of General U. S. Grant in siege of Richmond, 1864-65, brought to the Park from City Point, Virginia, at close of Civil War; opposite is Sedgeley Guard House, formerly the porter’s lodge of the Sedgeley Park Estate, site of a Gothic mansion, built, 1800, by William Crammond; acquired for the Park by public-spirited citizens; on same drive, near east end of Girard Avenue bridge, is the replica bronze equestrian statue of “Jeanne D’Arc,” sculptor, Fremiet, Paris; among the best examples of modern French equestrian sculpture. The original is in “La Place des Pyramids,” Paris.
River Drive near boat houses, “Tam O’Shanter,” four figures, red sandstone, sculptor, Thom; from the last boat house, or the Beacon Light, to Girard Avenue bridge will be the Ellen Phillips Samuel Memorial, for which she left $500,000 in 1913; Fairmount Park Art Association, legatee; “On top of stone bulkhead I will have erected, 100 feet apart, on high granite pedestals, uniform in size and style, the History of America, symbolized in a system of statuary”; model made by Edgar V. Seeler. Near are the heroic bronze bust of James A. Garfield, with allegorical figure, sculptor, Augustus Saint Gaudens; the colossal bronze equestrian group, “Lion Fighter,” on natural jutting rock, sculptor, Professor Albert Wolff, cast, 1893; and scattered along, five bronzed iron fountains, replicas of those at Rond Point, Champs Elysees, cast in Paris at foundry of Val D’Osne.
North of tunnel, above Girard Avenue bridge, on River Drive, bronze equestrian statue, “Cowboy,” sculptor, Frederick Remington; a band of cowboys and Indians participated in the unveiling; River and Fountain Green Drive, heroic bronze equestrian statue, “General U. S. Grant”; sculptors, Daniel Chester French for Grant, Edward C. Potter for horse, modeled from the nineteen-year-old gelding, “General Grant,” sired by an Arabian stallion (Leopold), presented to the General in 1878 by the Sultan of Turkey; cast by Bureau Bros., Philadelphia, mounted on Jonesboro granite pedestal, designed by Frank Miles Day and Brother. Columbia Avenue entrance, fountain of “Orestes and Pylades,” bronze group, on Richmond granite pedestal, with bronze masks; sculptor, Carl Steinhauser, Calsruhe, Germany; cast in Philadelphia; near is the Children’s Playground building, erected by Richard and Sarah Smith in 1898; and a park mansion, Mt. Pleasant, land bought from Phineas Bond by John MacPherson, who built the house in 1761, after style of a house in Scotland owned by the chief of his clan, the MacPhersons of Clunie; in 1779, purchased by Benedict Arnold; on his conviction for treason, it was confiscated by the state; in 1781-82 Baron von Steuben occupied it, and here wrote the army regulations which created the American Army; in 1868 it became property of the city, and was added to Fairmount Park.
Rockland comes next, on west side of Dairy Ball Field, occupied 1750-65 by John Lawrence, a notable mayor of Philadelphia; near Rockland is Ormiston, colonial, owned by Edward Burd, prothonotary, Supreme Court of Pennsylvania, named for Scotch home of Mrs. Burd, daughter of Lord Haliburton of Ormiston, who founded the Burd Orphan Asylum; near Dauphin Street entrance, Grand Fountain, bronze and iron, and park trolley station.
Northwest is Woodford mansion; ground deeded by Penn to Dennis Rockford in 1693; house built, 1742, by William Coleman, an original member of the Junto Club; friend of Franklin and Judge of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania, colonial, brick; original oak floor is still in fine state of preservation; boards doweled together; laths are hand-cut, and handwork on cornices and wainscoting most beautiful; fireplace and mantel in main room are worthy of attention, although now marred by paint; later it became the home of the Franks family; Edgeley ball field, site of residence built by Philip Syng Physick, 1828-36, Professor of Surgery at University of Pennsylvania and first American to be elected member of the Royal Academy of France; the Randolph Mansion is west of Edgeley; interesting colonial house with beautiful handwork in cornices.
Strawberry Mansion, near Dauphin Street entrance; residence of William Lewis; then called Summerville, now used as a restaurant; name was given when added to the park; fine colonial architecture; main hall shows still how beautiful it must have been, with exquisite handwork on cornices, wainscoting, and niches in the hall ornamented with hand tracery.
Along the river drive we pass other country seats known as Harleigh, Fairy Hill, and the Laurels, now South, Central, and North Laurel Hill. Near the Falls on east side of Ridge Road, stood the home of Governor Thomas Mifflin, the fighting Quaker; from the Falls bridge a fine view is obtained of the Schuylkill Navy’s race course.
Farther up is the Wissahickon Creek, Wisamickan (Catfish Creek), or Wisaucksickan (yellow colored stream); we enter the deep recesses of this ravine, where the waters empty into the Schuylkill River; tradition says that on the northwest bank stood a flour mill; in Revolutionary times the owner ground glass or plaster, with the wheat, for the patriot army, for this crime some of Washington’s soldiers hanged him on a tree in front of his mill; here General Armstrong’s corps attacked the Hessian and British soldiers, October 4, 1777, while the Battle of Germantown was in progress: up the Wissahickon drive is Maple Spring Hotel, decorated by grotesque figures of animals and birds, carved out of native laurel; beyond this, across the stream, are abrupt bluffs, from one, the most prominent, called Lover’s Leap, tradition says, a young Indian and the girl whom he loved, being forbidden to marry, plunged into the waters below and were drowned; a steep grade leads to the six-mile stone; here Paper Mill Run empties into the Wissahickon, and here Nicholas Rittenhouse had his grist mill; just beyond, close beside an old bridge, is a quaint old house, inside is a stone tablet marked “C. W. R. 1707,” here David Rittenhouse, the famous astronomer, was born; on Paper Mill Run, the first paper mill in this country was erected, about 1690, by William Rittenhouse: a portion of this land near Tulpehocken Street, within park limits, once belonged to the Queen of Spain; farther is the Blue Stone Bridge, and just beyond is Lotus Inn.
Northward, the east shore becomes more steep, to Mom Rinker’s Rock, she is said to have been a witch; upon the height stands a statue of William Penn, with the single word “Toleration” cut on the pedestal; the statue and land were given to the city, for park purposes, by Hon. John Welsh, ex-minister to England.
One quarter mile farther is Kitchen Lane, and the Hermit’s Well, dug by Johannes Kelpius, scholar and mystic, who came from Germany with his followers, forty men, the number of perfection, in 1694, “to the new world, to see the dawn of the millennium; the pathway to the Light Illumitable, in the glory of religious liberty in Pennsylvania”; they were followers of the Essenes who lived in the solitudes of the Dead Sea, of which St. John the Baptist is said to have been a member; the Ridge and Valley of the Wissahickon gave them a temple of sacred grandeur; places there are now known as Hermit’s Land, and Hermit’s Glen; the piety and humility of Kelpius made him renowned; John Rogers of Connecticut and leaders of other colonies came long distances to consult this great Magister, he lived wholly to the service of God and his fellow men; the Baptistry, a place in the creek, is shown where the monks immersed their converts; after Kelpius’ death, about 1710, his followers built the monastery, replaced in 1752 by a stone house, built by Joseph Gorgas, also called the monastery; ruins still there: the bones of these faithful men are interred under the floor, in the chancel of St. Michael’s Protestant Episcopal Church, High Street, Germantown; also some of their original headstones are there: their books were given, in 1728, to Christ Church, Philadelphia, where they may still be seen: the cult is now found about Ephrata, among the Seventh Day Baptists.
Beyond the monastery, near Livezey’s Lane, are caves, said to have been the abode of hermits. Half a mile farther is Livezey’s mansion, built, 1698, said to have been neutral ground where British and American officers met during 1777-78; now headquarters of the Valley Green Canoe Club; above is Cresheim Creek, a small tributary flowing into the Wissahickon Creek, among great masses of huge rocks, under tall pines, making a dark pool, called the Devil’s Pool; said to be bottomless; scene of an engagement during the Battle of Germantown. Just beyond is Valley Green, a quaint old wayside inn; here is a stone bridge with strong buttresses and single arch; the reflection makes a clear oval; farther is the first drinking fountain erected in Philadelphia, “Pro Bono Publico,” placed in 1854; white marble; half a mile beyond, at east end of Rex Avenue Bridge, is Indian Rock, summit crowned by heroic statue of Tedyuscung, last of Indian chiefs to leave the shores of the Delaware. Northwest the ravine is deep and the hills steep, winding toward Chestnut Hill. It is proposed by the city to extend Fairmount Park, on both sides of the Wissahickon, to Fort Washington, and include Militia Hill at Whitemarsh, famous in the Revolution, making the Park one thousand acres larger.
West Park, west end of Girard Avenue Bridge, Zoölogical Gardens, open daily, including Sundays; in front, bronze group, “The Dying Lioness”; sculptor, Professor Wilhelm Wolff, Berlin, cast in Munich. The inclosure embraces Solitude, a mansion built in 1785 by John Penn, the poet, grandson of the founder and cousin of John Penn of Lansdowne; was last property owned in America by the Penn family; notable decorations are in the ground floor room; ceiling, fine example of French stucco, Louis XV period. The Zoölogical Gardens were incorporated in 1859; oldest incorporated body of its kind in America; on an area of forty-one acres arranged by H. Schwarzmann in 1873, opened, 1874, with large and attractive buildings, in which representative species of living animals are shown; it is a private organization; the Pathological Laboratory has for its objects, assistance in the hygienic control of the Garden; collection of statistics upon diseases of wild animals; and research: many species of water, and other birds, are on the large lake, and inclosures scattered through the Garden.
Opposite, on Girard Avenue, is William Penn’s House, originally in Letitia Street, near Second and Market; first brick house in Philadelphia, built, 1683, removed in 1883; Landsdowne Entrance to the Park, under two spacious elliptical arches of the Pennsylvania Railroad viaduct, carrying the railroad across Girard Avenue, is a dignified and handsome structure. Near is bronze group, “Hudson Bay Wolves,” sculptor, Edward Kemeys, cast in Philadelphia.
In 1732, “The State in Schuylkill,” a fishing club, first social club in Philadelphia, leased an acre of land near here, and built a hut; annual rental, three sun perch, presented on a pewter plate; they were here for ninety years; now in New Jersey; the members espoused the Revolutionary cause, and in 1774 formed a Company, called “The Light Horse,” afterwards, in 1778, became the First City Troop.
On Lansdowne Drive is Sweet Brier Mansion, built by Samuel Breck about 1810; colonial, in the hall is an interesting wrought iron grill; in front is bronze Indian group, The Stone Age, sculptor, John J. Boyle; cast in France. The Smith Memorial Gate, to Pennsylvania men distinguished in the Civil War, is at entrance to the Esplanade; architects, James and John T. Windrim, erected, with statuary, 1897-1912; sculpture all colossal; equestrian, Major General Hancock, sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward; and Major General McClellan, sculptor, Edward C. Potter; statues, Major General Meade, sculptor, Daniel Chester French; Major General Reynolds, sculptor, Charles Grafly; Richard Smith, sculptor, Herbert Adams; busts, Admiral Porter, sculptor, Charles Grafly; Major General Hartranft, sculptor, A. Stirling Calder; Admiral Dahlgren, sculptor, George E. Bissel; James H. Windrim, sculptor, Samuel Murray; Major General S. W. Crawford, sculptor, Bessie O. Potter Vonnoh; Governor Curtin, sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; General James A. Beaver, sculptor, Katharine M. Cohen; John B. Gest, sculptor, Charles Grafly; two eagles and globes, sculptor, J. Massey Rhind.
The John Welsh Memorial, President of the Centennial Expositon, formal Garden, with fountain, on site of Centennial main building, Parkside Avenue approach to Memorial Hall; “Florentine Lions,” cast by Harrison, Winans and Eastwick at Alexandroffsky, Russia, in 1849, from pair at entrance of Imperial Mechanical Works, originals at entrance to Loggia di Lanzi, Florence; Memorial Hall, front terrace, bronze, Spanish cannon, Miltiades, date, 1743; bronze, Spanish cannon, Semiramis, date, 1737; bronze, Spanish mortar, date, 1731, from fortifications in Cuba; carved decorations with Spanish royal arms of Philip and Elizabeth Farnese; two bronze groups: “Winged Horses,” led by muses of epic and lyric poetry, Calliope and Clio; sculptor, Pilz, made for Vienna Opera House, Austria; Memorial Hall, German Renaissance; architect, Hermann J. Schwarzmann; contains complete model of the arrangement of the Centennial buildings, made to scale by John Baird; first International Exposition held in America; when our national art was invigorated by competition with masterpieces of other lands, and now challenges comparison with the best: also Pompeian collection of paintings, illustrative of Pompeian life; and bronze face and hands of Abraham Lincoln; casts taken from first replicas, of original casts from life, in 1860; sculptor, Leonard W. Volk, Chicago; for collections, see Art. North of Memorial Hall is heroic bronze equestrian statue, Major General George Gordon Meade, sculptor, Alexander Milne Calder.
Horticultural Hall, erected 1876, on site of Lansdowne Mansion, built by Governor John Penn in 1773; stone; Italian; in 1816, leased by Joseph Bonaparte for two years, accidentally destroyed by fire in 1854. In 1866, the land was acquired from Barney family for the park; Moorish style, architect, Hermann J. Schwarzmann, also responsible for plan of adjacent sunken garden: no other building for similar purposes in this country can approach it, in dignity of design: contains marble statue “Il Penseroso,” sculptor, Mosier, acquired, 1874. Notable plants housed in this building are a gigantic specimen of Attalea Cohiene, bay oil palm, from Central America, possibly most superb palm to be seen under glass anywhere; Phœnix Canariensis from the Canary Islands; Seaforthias from Australia; Howeas from Lord Howe’s Island; Cocoa palms; Ceroxylon, wax palms, towering sixty or seventy feet; giant Rubber trees; Araucarias from Australia; Bamboos from the Orient; and lofty Tree Ferns from New Zealand unite to produce a wonderfully impressive scene, not unlike a glorified tropical forest, emphasized by training creepers up the lofty stems, growing ferns and orchids in crotches of the limbs, and by the strange aerial roots which reach down from these clinging plants to seek nourishment in the soil below, as in the tropical jungle. The Cactus house is arranged to give something the effect of arid regions, by planting in sterile soil; the Fern houses, with superb collections of Tree Ferns, and smaller growing Adiantums, Nephrolepis, Acrostichums, recall the effect of mountain ravines. A special house is given to the Cycads or Sago palms, survivals of vegetation of fossil beds, of which this collection is unique in this country. Another tropical house contains the Bromeliad or pineapple family, collection unique in many respects.
In the gardens, most striking features are the rare trees, golden larch, Pseudo-Larix; the Gordonias, Franklinias; oaks. East front has bronze busts of Schubert, granite pedestal with bronze bas-relief; “Music,” sculptor, Henry Baerer, New York; Hayden, a trophy won by United Singers of Philadelphia at the National Saengerfest; Verdi, on artistic sandstone pedestal, with carved figure; “Religious Liberty,” marble, sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; presented by the Hebrew Society B’nai B’rith. A short walk east, near Columbia Avenue bridge, is said to be Tom Moore’s cottage; the poet was a frequent guest both at Belmont and Ormiston, with communication by boat.
The Sunken Garden, west, rearranged to conform to Moorish ideals of garden approaches, is now a pool, about eight hundred feet long, similar to that before the Taj Mahal, flanked on both sides by spreading Oriental planes; beyond this central feature are flower gardens, following the Oriental in color arrangement, making an effect of noble proportions. A bronze Sundial shows the variations for each month of the year, and the time at twelve o’clock in twelve principal cities of the world; on Tennessee marble pedestal, with four supporting female figures, emblematic of the four seasons; sculptor, A. Sterling Calder. Bronze statues of Schiller, made in 1886, granite pedestal with bronze panels in bas-relief representing poetry, history, drama; and of his friend Goethe, made in 1890, granite pedestal decorated with bronze laurel wreaths.
Roman Catholic Centennial Fountain, erected by the Total Abstinence Societies, sculptor, Herman Kern. Japanese Temple Gate and lotus pond, near Belmont Avenue, part of Japanese exhibit in St. Louis, in 1904, showing best Japanese work of three hundred years ago; also on way to George’s Hill are, the Ohio, English, and Rhode Island Centennial buildings. George’s Hill, eighty-three acres, acquired by bequest to the City of Philadelphia, in 1868, through the Fairmount Park Commission, for the health and enjoyment of the people forever.
Belmont Mansion, built, 1743, by William Peters, stone, on estate of two hundred acres, approached by avenue of tall hemlocks, ninety feet high. Washington and Lafayette both planted trees here; view down the Schuylkill is like the Rhine; City Hall Tower focuses the eyes in the distance; Richard Peters, his son, wit and scholar, born here, was made Judge of the United States District Court of Pennsylvania by Washington; who was entertained here; also Hancock, the Adamses, Jefferson, Steuben, Talleyrand, and Louis Philippe.
North of Belmont is Ridgeland, once private residence; continue northeast near Park Trolley Station, Chamounix mansion, formerly known as Mount Prospect for its fine situation; built, 1802, by George Plumstead, a Philadelphia merchant.
Other Squares and Parks
William Penn, in his city plan, laid out five squares. Penn Square, Broad and Market Streets, site of early waterworks; now occupied by City Hall; Washington, Sixth and Walnut Streets; first Potter’s Field; Rittenhouse, Eighteenth and Walnut Streets, remodeled like a French park; playground for children of city’s social center; Lion and Serpent, bronze; sculptor, Barye; replica of one in the Garden of the Tuilleries, Paris; The Duck Girl, bronze; sculptor, Paul Manship; Billy, sculptor, Albert Laessle. Logan, on the Parkway; Swan Memorial Fountain to be in center, sculptor, A. Sterling Calder. This was the second Potter’s Field, and place of public executions; site of Sanitary Fair, in 1864, for the Civil War, visited by President and Mrs. Lincoln, pronounced most brilliant affair ever held in America. Franklin, Sixth and Race Streets, formerly a burial ground.
Broad Street, running north and south, is 113 feet wide and 12 miles long from League Island to City Line. Burholme, near Fox Chase, museum and library given and maintained by provision in will of Robert W. Ryerss; over forty-eight acres; opened to public in 1910. Clark’s, Forty-third Street and Chester Avenue, has artistic bronze group, Dickens and Little Nell, made in 1890; sculptor, Frank Edwin Elwell; awarded gold medals, Philadelphia, 1891; Chicago, 1893. Cobb’s Creek, 338 acres, formed, 1904; follows Cobb’s Creek on east bank; chiefly steep, tree-covered slopes for 107 acres; crossing at Mount Moriah Cemetery; widens, north of Market Street, into rolling landscape; has public golf links. Fernhill, ten acres, bounded by Wissahickon Avenue, Roberts Avenue, Schuyler Street, and Abbottsford Avenue, Germantown; memorial to Mr. and Mrs. Thomas McKean, part of their old homestead, given by their children to Park Commissioners with endowment. Fisher, twenty acres; near North Penn branch, Reading Railway; acquired by gift, 1909. Hunting Park, with lake, eighty-seven acres; crossing Northeast Boulevard at Nicetown Lane. League Island and United States Navy Yard; part of Southern Boulevard. Morris, twenty acres; extension of Cobb’s Creek Park; beautiful forest, watered by Indian Run Creek, acquired by gift, 1912. Pennypack, near mouth of Pennypack Creek to Rhawn Street, 532 acres, acquired in 1905; beautiful fertile valley with stream, widened in places, with half ruined mill dams and their waterfalls; quaint masonry bridges, either in single arch or series of spans. Reynolds, Snyder Avenue and Seventeenth Street, contains memorial to General John F. Reynolds, a hero of Gettysburg; granite shaft, six feet high, with bronze medallion of General Reynolds; sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown; unveiled, 1915. Wister’s Woods, contains fine trees and profusion of dogwood; forty-four acres; East Germantown; bird sanctuary.
Total amount of space devoted to park, square, and boulevard purposes within city limits is 8,037.32 acres.
The Fairmount Park Art Association organized 1871, to express high civic ideals, in forms of beauty and dignity, synonymous with art, have had large mounted photographs of the sculpture in Fairmount Park placed in Philadelphia public schools.
Historic Institutions of Philadelphia
Academy of Natural Sciences, on the Parkway at Logan Circle, was founded, 1812, in the house of Thomas Say, Esq., northwest corner of Second and Market Streets. The Museum, for its historic value and extent of its collection, is one of the most important in existence; arranged in two series, an exhibition for the public, and reference for specialists. Library contains about 60,000 volumes, nearly all on natural sciences; several important publications are issued by the Academy, and numerous lectures on natural history are given annually. Contains portraits of founders, Thomas Say, Gerard Troost, William Maclure, Charles Lesueur, Sir Joseph Banks, Samuel L. Mitchell. All painted by Charles Willson Peale, and hung in Peale’s Museum; others by noted artists are Robert Bridges, Isaac Lea, Joseph Leidy, by Bernard Uhle; Jacob Gilliams by P. F. Rothermel; William Hempbell and George Ord by John Neagle; Samuel G. Morton by Paul Weber; W. S. W. Ruschenberger by William K. Hewitt; Isaac Wistar by Robert Vonnoh; also a fine study model of Alexander Wilson, the ornithologist, by Charles Grafly, and statuette of same by Alexander Calder.
American Philosophical Society, 103 South Fifth Street, on lot in State House yard, given the Society by the state in 1785; colonial, brick; built, 1789: originated in “The Junto” formed by Benjamin Franklin, 1727, with the object of mutual improvement; received its name 1769, “The American Philosophical Society in Philadelphia, for Promoting Useful Knowledge.” Benjamin Franklin, then in Europe, sole American plenipotentiary to France from the thirteen provinces, was elected first president, and continued until his death in 1790. David Rittenhouse, second president, served until his death in 1796; he, with other members, successfully observed the Transit of Venus, June 3, 1769, giving the first approximately accurate results to the world, in the measurements of the spheres; he also constructed an orrery for measuring heavenly bodies. Thomas Jefferson, third president, served eighteen years, while he was also Vice-President and President of the United States, and established its library and cabinet. Present President, Dr. W. W. Keen. Its membership is world wide. At the meetings, held regularly, the most advanced thought in scientific investigation is presented. The Society now owns most of the Franklin papers in existence, recently calendared in five volumes by Dr. I. Minis Hays; field notes of Lewis and Clark expedition; original copy of Penn’s Charter of Privileges, dated 1701; manuscript volume, Laws of Pennsylvania prior to 1700, and original broadside, Declaration of Independence. Oil portraits of all its Presidents are here and of many leading members; notably, George Washington, by Gilbert Stuart; President Jefferson, Benjamin Rush, John Vaughn, Caspar Wistar, P. S. DuPonceau, all by Thomas Sully; David Rittenhouse and Samuel Vaughn by C. W. Peale; Joseph Priestly and Chief Justice William Tilghman by Rembrandt Peale; Daniel G. Brinton by Thomas Aikens; Professor Alexander Dallas Bache by Huntington; General Isaac Wistar and Joseph Henry by Bernard Uhle; several notable busts of Jefferson, Turgot, and Condorcet by Houdon; Benjamin Franklin by Caffieri; and of Lafayette, Alexander Hamilton, and Nicholas Biddle.
The Franklin Institute, Seventh Street above Chestnut; organized, 1824; open free daily; classic, marble, built, 1825; John Haviland, architect. First organization in the United States to combine science with practice; the lecture course presents, free to the public, latest advances in useful arts and sciences, by distinguished technologists; also popular illustrated addresses on topics of the day; school of Mechanic Arts includes instruction in mechanical and architectural drawing, said to be one of the most thorough and practical in the United States. Library is second to none, in extent and completeness, as reference for scientific literature; The Franklin Journal, published since 1825, monthly, is the only record extant of a number of early United States patents. They held first exhibition in America of American manufactures, 1824, in Carpenters’ Hall, and first electrical exhibition in America. Portraits include Dr. Benjamin Franklin and Matthias W. Baldwin by Sully, Daguerre by Abraham Whiteside, and bust of Henry Clay by William Rush, carved wood. Among relics are typesetting and electrical machines, used by Benjamin Franklin, and early models of machinery. Will be moved to Parkway, Race Street, east of Nineteenth Street.
The Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1300 Locust Street, in mansion of General Robert Patterson, enlarged and made fireproof; founded, 1824. Open 10.00 A.M. to 6.00 P.M.; July and August, closes at 4.00 P.M.; publishes the Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography; contains probably the largest collection of sources of American history assembled in any one place; includes over 100,000 bound books, 250,000 pamphlets, 7000 volumes of manuscripts and some 3500 volumes of newspapers, which are invaluable to the student of colonial and Revolutionary history; an Index to the Marriages and Deaths, in Dunlap, Claypoole and Poulson’s American Daily Advertiser, creates a constant demand for the files of that newspaper for genealogical purposes; Tom Paine’s American Crisis, 1776, and many other rare imprints of Americans. The Society has a large and exceedingly rich collection of oil paintings; practically all the governors of the state are represented in portraiture on its walls, some of the mayors of Philadelphia, and portraits of many Revolutionary officers; a portrait of Johannes Kelpius, the “Hermit of the Wissahickon,” by Christopher Wick, in 1704, is believed to be the earliest portrait in oil painted in America; portraits of Gustavus Hesselius, his wife, and of Robert Morris, Sr., father of the financier, painted by Gustavus Hesselius, are of historic interest; a fine collection of original portraits, drawings, studies, and manuscripts by Benjamin West, includes the full length portrait of William Hamilton of the Woodlands, and his niece, Mrs. Ann Hamilton Lyle, probably the most beautiful of West’s portraits in this city; other artists represented are Charles Willson Peale, Jacob Eicholtz, Thomas Sully, Rembrandt Peale, John Neagle, Charles Gilbert Stuart, Robert Edge Pine, John Singleton Copley, Walter G. Gould, Henry Inman, Paul Weber, and William E. Winner. Among the miniatures are those by John Trumbull, James Peale, and Robert Fulton. Marble busts are of Washington, Franklin, Milton, Henry Clay, Major General Robert Patterson, T. Buchanan Read, and Dr. Joseph Parrish. Relics of great historic interest include the Ephrata Printing Press, the Charter of the City of Philadelphia, and the “Great Belt of Wampum,” representing the famous Shackamaxon Treaty between William Penn and the Indians, “never signed and never broken.”
Masonic Temple, Broad and Filbert Streets; Norman architecture; built, 1870; John T. Windrim, architect. Rooms with notable decorations are the Egyptian; Oriental, Moorish style from sketches made in the Alhambra by John Sartain; and Corinthian, copied from well-known standards of architecture, ornament and familiar figure composition. Museum said to be the greatest existing Masonic museum, contains aprons of Past Grand Masters of the three oldest Lodges in the world; and George Washington’s apron, made by Madame Lafayette and presented to him by the Marquis, worn by Washington at laying of the corner-stone of the Capitol at Washington; an ancient Templar Cross, original Crusader’s Cross, found in a grave at Tyre, Syria, A.D. 1250; notable jewelers’ art of England, Denmark, Germany, France, and Great Britain, in badges, including one owned by Napoleon I; tablet from Temple of Herod; Sephar Torah, ancient scroll of the law found in Germany, over eighteen feet long, and from three hundred to five hundred years old. Library, Byzantine decorations, with coats of arms, of various Guilds and Grand Lodges, in the ceiling. The Great Hall, or front entrance, contains portraits and paintings, among them “The Puritans” by F. J. Waugh and “A Marine Scene” by Richards; Seals of the States of the Union, and paintings portraying the Pan Athenia, Greek festival. On the second floor are the Grand Lodge Room, representing a Corinthian temple, constructed to appear roofless; the columns, reproductions of the Lysicrates, Athens; mural paintings represent the mythology of the Greeks, “Weighing of the Soul,” “Ulysses Passing the Island of the Sirens,” “Birth of Athena,” “Judgment of Paris,” “The Golden Fleece.” Renaissance Hall, the Tabernacle, contains the Veils of the Temple. Two paintings at either end represent a High Priest, and a Scribe. Ionic Hall and Norman Hall have characteristic ornamentation; Egyptian Hall, decorations are copied from Temples of Karnak, Elephanta, Philae, Rameses, the Cataracts and Tombs; Ceiling from Temple of Denderah; also the scene “Weighing the Soul,” showing Egyptian mythology allied with Greek.
Mint of United States at Philadelphia, Sixteenth and Spring Garden Streets, open daily, except Sundays and holidays, 9.00 A.M., to 3.00 P.M. Classic Ionic, granite, built, 1901, by the Supervising Architect of Washington, D. C. Main lobby finished in Italian marble with mosaic ceiling; panels illustrate ancient methods and processes of coinage; artist, W. B. Van Ingen. Largest and most completely equipped Mint in the world. Numismatic room, accessible to the public, contains large collection of coins and medals; among them the widow’s mite, found in ruins of Temple in Jerusalem.
Pennsylvania Bible Society, 701 Walnut Street, organized in Philadelphia, 1808. First Bible Society on American continent; present building erected, 1853. First President, Right Rev. William White, D.D.; first meeting, called by Robert Ralston in his own home; object, to further our country’s welfare through the Bible, the Book teaching love, unity, and forbearance; therefore qualified to band the people together and advance national betterment. The establishment of such an organization in our land was recognized by gift of £200 by the British and Foreign Bible Society, London. All denominations have been represented in the line of Presidents; during Bishop Whitaker’s incumbency the Pennsylvania Bible Society was connected with the American Bible Society in New York, now the national organization. General Lafayette in 1824 was presented by this Society with a specially prepared copy of the Scriptures. At the centennial of this Society, in 1908, celebrated in the Academy of Music, Bishop Ozi W. Whitaker, D.D., presided; Right Hon. James Bryce, British Ambassador, made an address and presented to Bishop Whitaker a beautifully embossed Bible, sent by the British and Foreign Bible Society, emblems on the cover were from early Christian examples, similar to those on the Coronation Bible given to King Edward VII; Ambassador Bryce was in turn presented with a richly made copy of the Scriptures, by the Pennsylvania Society; greetings were received from President Theodore Roosevelt and Governor Edwin S. Stuart of Pennsylvania, and from other Bible societies. At the Tercentenary celebration of King James version of the English Bible, in the Academy of Music, 1911, James A. MacDonald, LL.D., of Toronto, spoke of “The Influence of the Bible Upon the Commonwealth.” Letters were read from King George V of England, and President William H. Taft. This Society now circulates between two and three hundred thousand Bibles per annum, printed in over fifty languages and dialects, for Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware, over which this house has especial jurisdiction. Any separate book of the Bible may be obtained for two cents.
Philadelphia Commercial Museum, Thirty-fourth Street below Spruce, organized, 1894, is the only Commercial Museum in the United States; it received immense collections from the Chicago “Columbian Exposition,” over forty governments being represented; many subsequent collections from other international expositions; and special exhibits, illustrating the people and products of the world. A free reference library is here, of Foreign and American Commerce and Travel, which could not be duplicated, and courses of free lectures are given which cover subjects of geographic, commercial, and industrial importance, illustrated by colored lantern slides and motion pictures; colored slides, with lantern screen and type-written lectures, covering same field of geography, commerce, and industry, are loaned, free of cost, to public-school teachers, in all parts of Pennsylvania; they reach tens of thousands; also collections of specimens, to aid teachers, are sent free of cost, as a gift to Pennsylvania public schools; they are arranged, showing important raw material, and process of manufacture. Manufacturers are furnished with information on all matters pertaining to foreign trade; the Foreign Trade Bureau is the acknowledged leader of such organizations in the world.
The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, 1600 Walnut Street; first in America, organized at meeting in Franklin Institute, 1827, to promote horticulture and create love for flowers, fruits, and vegetables by their cultivation. Minutes of the Society and list of membership is complete from formation to present time. Lectures by an expert in the various branches of horticulture are given at each monthly meeting, from November until May. Annual exhibitions are, Spring Flower Show before Easter, three days; Peony, outdoor grown Rose and Sweet Pea Show in Philadelphia suburbs, from May to July, according to season; Dahlia Exhibition, in September; Chrysanthemum, early November. The Society has a library of several thousand books on agriculture and horticulture, some very rare and of great value, and all recommended works, of recent publication, in Europe and America. “Great gardens educate people in gentility as well as in horticulture.”
Wagner Institute, southwest corner of Seventeenth Street and Montgomery Avenue; founded by Professor William Wagner, 1847. Circulating and reference library open daily except Sunday, 9.00 A.M. to 9.00 P.M. Museum collections, chiefly in reference to geology and mineralogy, open Wednesday and Saturday afternoons. Courses of lectures conducted through the collegiate year.
Libraries
The Library Company of Philadelphia, Locust Street, east of Broad; first circulating library in the United States; founded by subscription in 1731, by Benjamin Franklin and his friends of the Junto Club; charter granted by John, Thomas, and Richard Penn in 1781; original building, Fifth and Library Streets, designed by Dr. Thornton, now the Drexel Building; present building, architect, Frank Furness in 1889; is a haven for scholars interested in historical research; also has important collections of books on costume, foreign literature, and complete set of Punch, begun in 1840; among historic relics are original sketches made for Watson’s Annals of Philadelphia; William Penn’s desk from Pennsburg; John Dickinson’s reading desk, and Heraldic Hatchment, used at his funeral; and the André collection. The Ridgeway Branch, Broad and Christian Streets, founded by bequest of Dr. James Rush; architect, Addison Hutton; built, 1878, Doric, granite; contains terra cotta bust of Minerva, heroic size, probably French work; formerly behind the Speaker’s chair in the Continental Congress, Sixth and Chestnut Streets, given to the Philadelphia Library, 1783, also some articles of Boule, and illuminated manuscripts.
Mercantile Library, Tenth Street above Chestnut; was established 1821, at 100 Chestnut Street, present building, originally a market house, with room seventy-four by two hundred feet, and high-arched ceiling, makes ideal condition for library work on one floor; this is a circulating library of general literature for stockholders and members, who only are admitted into the reading room, where they have unrestricted use of books.
Philadelphia City Institute, 218 South Nineteenth Street, was founded, 1852, by public-spirited citizens, for the purpose of benefiting young men, by establishing a free library and night school; library free to the public.
The Free Library of Philadelphia, northeast corner of Thirteenth and Locust Streets, chartered, 1891, from endowment fund, left in will by William Pepper, M.D., LL.D., for a free library in the city of Philadelphia: opened temporarily in City Hall; removed to old Concert Hall, 1217-21 Chestnut Street, now in old building of College of Physicians; contains bust of Dr. Pepper, by Carl Bitter, and portraits; a large new library building is in process of construction on the Parkway, Nineteenth and Vine Streets. Growth and usefulness, from its inception, are due to the management of the late Dr. John Thomson, Librarian; now includes a main building, 26 branches, as well as deposit stations and traveling libraries; total circulation for home use in 1916, 2,767,310. Hearty coöperation exists between the public schools and the Free Library; school extension lectures are given to the children of the grammar grades; and “story hours” are weekly events for younger children in the branch libraries. Reference and periodical departments contain works on art, architecture, and archæology, extremely valuable to the practical student and designer; here are facsimiles of many most noted, of early printed books and manuscripts, Bible codices, etc.; the “open shelf” system is used in all departments. Fine buildings of the branch libraries have been developed in their architectural proportions and decoration, on the traditions of French and English Renaissance, or local expression of the Georgian; always with top lighting, considered extremely important: in the basement of the branch at Seventeenth and Spring Garden Streets is a large and valuable collection of government documents; the Josephine Widener Memorial Branch, Broad Street and Girard Avenue, has reference books of priceless nature and rare prints, issued before A.D. 1500.
Historic Medical Colleges, Hospitals, and Dispensaries
Christ Chruch Hospital, Wynnefield Station, Park Trolley and P. R. R.; Gothic stone building; organized, 1772, by Dr. John Kearsley; endowed by Jacob Dobson in 1804; is a home for gentlewomen, communicants of the Protestant Episcopal Church, in the Diocese of Pennsylvania; 150 acres; the Board of Managers include three of the vestry, each, of Christ Church and St. Peter’s Church.
College of Physicians of Philadelphia, Twenty-second Street, above Chestnut; founded about 1787, and modeled on lines of The Royal College of Physicians in London. A scientific paper was read by Dr. Benjamin Rush at the first meeting. English Renaissance, brick, laid Flemish bond, with basement, cornices, pilasters, and other trimmings of Indiana limestone; finest building of a medical society in the world, with the largest medical library, save one, in the United States, and a fine collection of portraits of presidents of the Society, painted by most notable artists. This is not a teaching institution, but a Medical Society, composed of men of professional distinction.
Hahnemann Medical College and Hospital, 226 North Broad Street. Oldest homeopathic college in the world; founded in 1848; first located at 229 Arch Street. Consolidated with the Homeopathic Medical College in 1869; moved to present site in 1901. Its collections include the world-famous dissection of entire cerebro-spinal nervous system by Dr. Rufus B. Weaver; Dr. Hering’s complete writings of Paracelsus; Dr. A. R. Thomas’s library of old and rare anatomical books; Hahnemann’s works in the original; it has the most complete library of homeopathic literature in existence. Portrait of Dr. W. B. VanLennep; artist, Henry Rittenberg.
Home of the Merciful Saviour, 4400 Baltimore Avenue, on grounds adjoining the Clarence Clark Park; incorporated, 1882; eight houses and chapel, all memorials, with a summer home at Avon-by-the-Sea. A home for crippled, homeless, and helpless children. First of its kind in America where vocational training is taught.
Hospital of the Protestant Episcopal Church, Front Street and Lehigh Avenue. Main group of buildings, pure Norman. Founded by the Right Rev. Alonzo Potter, Bishop of Pennsylvania, and Dr. Caspar Morris, in the ancestral home of two parishioners on the present site. Jenny Lind made the first cash contribution.
Jefferson Medical College, Tenth and Sansom Streets; founded through the efforts of Dr. George B. McClellan; opened, 1825. Present building erected, 1904.
Jefferson Hospital, Tenth and Sansom Streets; last word in hospital construction and equipment; originated in the Infirmary established in Jefferson College, 1825; present site was bought, 1875, and the building opened for use in 1877. Amphitheatre is one of the largest in the world. Museum contains casts and wax models of interesting cases. Notable portraits in the building are Dr. Forbes, by Aikens; Dr. DaCosta, by Vonnoh; Dr. Keen, by Chase; Mr. William Potter, by Breckenridge; Dr. William Pancoast, by Uhle; also bronze bust of Dr. Marion Sims, by C. Duboi, Paris, 1876; marble bust of Dr. George McClellan; bronze busts of Daniel Webster and Thomas Jefferson.
Jewish Hospital, Logan Station; Old York Road and Olney Avenue, entrance is marked with six granite columns from the old United States Mint, formerly on Chestnut Street. Includes twenty buildings, on twenty-two acres of ground, with modern scientific equipment for treatment of sick, care of aged and incurable. A number of art works said to be of considerable value are here.
Municipal Hospital, Luzerne, near Front Street, 4000 north; on extensive grounds bisected by a well-wooded ravine. Established in 1774, on State Island, for the isolation and treatment of contagious diseases; probably most complete of its kind in the world.
Pennsylvania Hospital, between Spruce and Pine Streets, Eighth and Ninth Streets; colonial; brick; with great trees and beautiful open spaces in the grounds. First hospital in the United States, founded, 1751, by Dr. Thomas Bond and Benjamin Franklin. Corner-stone on present site, laid, 1755, can still be seen; part of this land belonged to William Penn, which he donated. In 1756, here was the first clinical amphitheatre in America. Noah Webster delivered a lecture for the benefit of the hospital in 1786; other benefits received about this time were, a charity sermon preached by Rev. George Whitefield in St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal Church; and a painting by Benjamin West, “Christ Healing the Sick,” made while he was in London; the English refused to allow the original to come to America; they used it to start the National Gallery; so a replica was painted; it now hangs in the hall; for years the hospital made money by charging a fee to see it. At the Pine Street front is a leaden statue of William Penn, presented by his grandson, John Penn, from Wycombe Park, Bucks, England, estate of Lord le Dispenser. Benjamin Franklin was the first Secretary and the second President; his minute books are still to be seen there, with clear fine handwriting; and interesting letters and documents of colonial and Revolutionary times.
Philadelphia Almshouse and General Hospital, Thirty-fourth and Pine Streets, Blockley; first almshouse was opened in 1713 by the Quakers; not municipal, open only to their sect; located on Walnut, between Third and Fourth Streets. First city almshouse was established in 1732; second in 1767; in 1772 it was the most extensive hospital on the continent. During the Revolutionary War, wounded were cared for here. In Longfellow’s poem, Evangeline becomes a Sister of Mercy and ministers here to the yellow fever sufferers in Philadelphia. Present institution built, 1834; architecture of administration building, Corinthian, marble. The Medical Department antedates the Pennsylvania Hospital.
Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, 145 North Tenth Street; established, 1821, at meeting in Carpenters’ Hall: consists of five large buildings connected by a central building, Romanesque, Pompeian brick and Seneca red stone; largest and first institution in the United States devoted to pharmaceutical and chemical instruction. Laboratories and equipment are without a peer, for most advanced training of men and women as pharmacists and chemists. Museum has a large number of paintings of famous scientists, also the Martindale Herbarium of over 200,000 plant specimens. Library has about 14,000 volumes; around the gallery hang portraits of men who have given largely of their time and substance to the development and advancement of the College, and to the progress and betterment of the city; artists represented, Charles Willson Peale, Hugh H. Breckenridge, Henry R. Rittenberg. Collection of photographs of pharmaceutical subjects, many rare and very valuable.
Preston Retreat, Twentieth and Hamilton Streets, on site of William Penn’s residence; classic, marble: founded by Dr. James Preston in 1837, for married women of good character and indigent circumstances, about to be confined. One of the best equipped in the world.
St. Joseph’s Hospital, Girard Avenue and Sixteenth Street; colonial, brick. Established first in the parish of St. Joseph’s Church, near Fourth and Walnut Streets, for Irish famine refugees who became ill on overcrowded and unventilated ships. Incorporated, 1849. Was third general hospital in Philadelphia.
Wills’ Hospital, Eighteenth and Race Streets, facing Logan Circle; classic, marble; founded, 1832, by James Wills, Jr., for the indigent blind and lame. Now one of the best in the world as an institution for the study and practice of ophthalmy.
Women’s Hospital of Philadelphia, North College Avenue. Oldest and largest hospital in the world for women and children: organized, 1861. Its motto is, “Woman’s work for woman by women.”
Woman’s Medical College of Philadelphia, Twenty-first Street and North College Avenue; first college in the world organized for the education of women for the medical profession. Incorporated, 1850. Dr. Ann Preston, of first class to be graduated, was the founder of the Women’s Hospital. Contains bas-relief tablet, “The Woman Physician”; sculptor, Miss Clara Hill.
Historic Musical Interests of Philadelphia
Academy of Music, Broad and Locust Streets. Seats 3000; established, 1857, for representation of operas in English, and distinguished entertainments; opened with a magnificent ball, such as was never before witnessed in Philadelphia; now home of the Philadelphia Orchestra, which has had three conductors since its organization in 1900, Fritz Scheel, Carl Pohlig, and Leopold Stokowski; all of whom have brought the splendid body of players to a high standard of musical excellence. Dr. Stokowski has said of the Academy: “The architect must have had great knowledge of the laws governing sound, as the volumes are marvelously arranged.”
The Mahler Symphony was given here in 1916, first time in America, Stokowski, director, with chorus of 1000 voices. A memorial to Siegfried Behrens will be in wall of lobby, portrait figure in relief, with Muse of Music holding laurel wreath, Cararra marble, seven feet high, on base of dark marble; sculptor, Guiseppe Donato.
The Maennerchor Society, 1643 North Broad Street. A men’s chorus of active and associate members, founded, 1835, by Philip Mathias Wolsieffer, director for eighteen years. The Maennerchor was the first men’s chorus in America; they have sung for twenty-eight years at opening of the German-American Charity Ball, in the Academy of Music. They sang with the Vocal Union, choral parts of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony in 1874, first time given in America, William W. Wolsieffer conducting. Won three prizes at National Saengerfest in Brooklyn, Baltimore, and Newark.
Musical Fund Hall, Locust Street, west of Eighth Street, built, 1824. Acoustic properties unsurpassed. Jenny Lind sang here. Now used by a Labor Organization.
Philadelphia has over two hundred singing societies, and a long list of very prominent musical organizations.
The Presser Foundation of Philadelphia, organized 1916, is the first institution of its kind to be established in America. All of its resources have been given by Mr. Theodore Presser. It includes a Home for Retired Music Teachers, suggested by the Founder’s visit to the Verdi “Casa di Riposo per Musicisti,” in Milan in 1899. Scholarships to institutions of learning, the students to be selected by the President, and Directors of the Musical Departments, and emergency aid relief to musicians.
The University of Pennsylvania and Other Historic Schools
The University of Pennsylvania, Thirty-fourth Street and Woodland Avenue, with a campus of one hundred and seventeen acres along the west bank of the Schuylkill River and equipment of seventy buildings; originated in the Charity School, organized, 1740, at Fourth and Arch Streets; made an academy through the interest of Benjamin Franklin, in 1749; chartered, “The College of Philadelphia,” with power to confer honorary and collegiate degrees, being the third oldest college in the United States; in 1799 was organized and chartered as “The University of the State of Pennsylvania,” making it the first institution in the United States designated a university; also the first to establish professional schools distinct from the college. The School of Medicine was added in 1765, and has always maintained the most advanced requirements and highest standards of scholarship for graduation; it was founded by Dr. John Morgan, who held the first medical professorship in America; he was physician in chief of the Continental Army, 1775-77. The first American University Professorship in Law was established here, 1790; James Wilson held the position; President Washington attended his lectures. In 1799, the University conferred on Washington the degree of LL.D., and later, in 1826, set apart his birthday as University Day, on which honorary degrees are conferred, with appropriate exercises. Nine sons of this University signed the Declaration of Independence; seven, the Constitution of the United States; twenty-one were members of the Continental Congress; nine, in the United States Senate; eight were Attorney-Generals of states or of the United States; six were Justices of the Supreme Court; seven, Governors of states; and many others were Officers in the Army and men in public life, who had received their education in the old building, Fourth and Arch Streets, before 1800.
In 1802 the University was moved to Ninth and Chestnut Streets, and occupied the presidential mansion, now site of the Post Office; in 1872, moved to the present site in West Philadelphia. In 1912, under the administration of Provost Edgar Fahs Smith, The University Extension Courses were formed, and the college made into three departments with a dean for each. The College, founded 1740, includes School of Arts; Summer School; College Courses for Teachers; Courses in Biology and Music. The Towne Scientific School, founded, 1875, includes, Architecture, Chemistry, Science, Technology, Mechanical, Electrical and Civil Engineering. Wharton School of Finance and Commerce, founded 1881, includes, School of Accounts and Finance in Philadelphia; and the Extension Schools of Finance and Accounts in Scranton and Wilkes-Barre.
Department of Music, through the unceasing and wise direction of Dr. Hugh A. Clarke, has graduated hundreds of students in music, after a four years’ course in Harmony, Counterpoint, Composition, and Orchestration. The degree of Bachelor of Music has been conferred on many who qualified to meet the requirements. The Graduate School was founded, 1882; courses lead to degrees of master of arts, and doctor of philosophy.
Other Departments are, the Law School, Thirty-fourth and Chestnut Streets; building dedicated University Day, 1900, architects, Cope & Stewardson, style similar to the English Renaissance as developed by Sir Christopher Wren; Indiana limestone and dull red brick; contains the Biddle Law Library, 55,000 volumes; The Black Memorial Collection of English Legal Engravings, most complete in America; several original documents by Benjamin Franklin, George Washington and other colonial men; many objects of historical interest to members of the bar; a fine collection of portraits include those of Algernon Sydney Biddle, by Cecilia Beaux; Charles Chauncey, by Henry Inman; Thomas McKean, LL.D., by Robert W. Vonnoh; Richard Coxe McMurtrie, LL.D., by William M. Chase; James Wilson, LL.D., by Albert Rosenthal, from a miniature; marble busts of Daniel Webster and Jeremiah Sullivan; tablets and memorials.
Laboratory of Chemistry, Thirty-fourth and Spruce Streets; dedicated, 1894; shows the broad projecting eaves of brick architecture in the Italian Renaissance; architects, Cope & Stewardson; it is one of the best equipped chemical laboratories in America. The Engineering building, Thirty-third and Locust Streets; dedicated, 1906; Georgian, dark brick with limestone trimmings, architects, Cope & Stewardson; houses the civil, electrical, and mechanical engineering departments; best equipped of its kind. In its collection of portraits is that of John Henry Towne, by William M. Hunt.
Laboratory of Hygiene, includes the Psychological Clinic; Department of physical education; and Franklin Field, Thirty-third and Spruce Streets, dedicated, 1895, seating capacity of the stadium about 62,000, was for many years scene of annual football between the United States Military and Naval Academies; gymnasium, facing Thirty-third Street, erected, 1903, English Collegiate, Gothic, dark red brick, with black headers laid in Flemish bond, terra cotta and Indiana limestone trimmings, floors and columns concrete; comprises Weightman Hall, exercising rooms, and a large swimming pool; architects, Frank Miles Day & Brother; in front on the terrace is statue of Benjamin Franklin at seventeen, as he first entered Philadelphia in 1732; sculptor, Dr. R. Tait McKenzie, pedestal designed by Professor Paul P. Cret. In the entrance is bronze tablet in relief, full figure portrait of Charles S. Bayne in baseball uniform, “1895 College,” sculptor, R. Tait McKenzie; also other memorials.
Department of Archæology, founded, 1889, by the late Provost William Pepper, M.D., LL.D., museum, Spruce Street, near Thirty-fourth Street, open free daily, 10.00 A.M. to 5.00 P.M.; Sunday 2.00 to 6.00 P.M. The treatment of this building and the courtyard, begun 1897, is among the most successful works of architecture in this country; it was inspired by the round, arched, brick architecture of Northern Italy, about twelfth century; details especially suggesting the old Church of San Stefano in Bologna; roof of Spanish tiles gives added charm; architects in coöperation, Wilson Eyre, Jr., Cope & Stewardson, Frank Miles Day & Brother. Has valuable collections illustrating the history of mankind; Egyptian, Cretan, Etruscan, and Babylonian antiquities, famous tablets from Nippur, and the Dillwyn-Parish collection of Græco-Roman papyri, among which are the oldest known fragments of the Gospel of St. Matthew. During 1916, the museum maintained four expeditions in the field: in Egypt, China, Siberia, and one on the Amazon, which will return with collections they have gathered. Among the portraits in the museum are, Mrs. William D. Frismuth, donor of collection of musical instruments, and Franklin Hamilton Cushing, ethnologist, both by Thomas Eakins; bronze statue of Dr. William Pepper, by Carl Bitter, is in the Italian garden; free public illustrated lectures are given Saturdays, 3.30 P.M., from November to March.
Library, founded, 1749, with volumes bearing accession dates of 1749, given by Benjamin Franklin; First Provost, William Smith; Louis XVI of France; and others, now contains about 450,000 volumes, and many special collections; present building dedicated, 1891, Thirty-fourth and Locust Streets, red brick, sandstone, and terra cotta, Furness, Evans & Company, architects; among the portraits here are Benjamin Franklin, LL.D., replica, by Thomas Gainsborough, R.A., of his original; William Wordsworth, poet, from life, by Henry Inman in 1844; Joseph G. Rosengarten, LL.D., by B. A. Osnis, and the entire class of 1811 minus one, in silhouette, cut at Peale’s Museum; here also is the famous orrery and large clock made by David Rittenhouse for this university.
Houston Hall, memorial to Henry Howard Houston, Jr., class of ’78, Spruce Street above Thirty-fourth. North Conshohocken and Indiana limestone; architect’s design of two students of the School of Architecture, developed by Frank Miles Day; was planned by Provost C. C. Harrison, to weld the cosmopolitan body of students into one democratic brotherhood, which has now become a world-wide movement in college life; contains trophy rooms, pool tables, and publication office of “Old Penn,” until 1918 the official weekly; courses of Free Public Lectures are given by members of the Faculty, and men from other American and foreign Universities; services by eminent ministers are conducted each Sunday morning. Among the many portraits in Houston Hall are, Henry Howard Houston, Jr., by Cecilia Beaux; David Rittenhouse, by Charles Willson Peale; Henry Reed, and Henry Vethake, both by Sully.
The University Hospital, Thirty-fourth and Spruce Streets; founded by the late Provost Dr. William Pepper, 1874, covers two city blocks; medical staff consists of more than one hundred and fifty physicians and one hundred nurses; the Surgical Building erected, 1914; Jacobean style, brick and limestone, architects, Brockie & Hastings, contains marble bust on pedestal of Dr. William Pepper, Provost, 1881-94; bronze mural tablet with portrait of late Dr. John H. Musser, sculptor, Dr. R. Tait McKenzie; and many bronze memorials. The Medical Laboratory, dedicated, 1904, on Hamilton Walk, English Collegiate, of Middle seventeenth century, hard burnt brick and buff Indiana limestone; architects, Cope & Stewardson; interior finished in white Italian marble; is one of the largest and best equipped in America. Contains nearly complete collection of oil portraits of staff of physicians from 1765, including painting of David Hayes Agnew, M.D., LL.D., at the close of a clinic in Medical Hall, all the subordinate figures in the group are likenesses, among them, Dr. J. William White, Dr. Joseph Leidy, Jr., and the artist, Thomas Eakins; Professor John Morgan, founder of the Medical School, after the original by Angelica Kauffman; Professor William Osler, LL.D., and De Forest Willard, by W. M. Chase; Professor Philip Syng Physick, first American to be elected member of Royal Academy, France, by Henry Inman, from life in 1836; Professor Benjamin Rush, by John Neagle; Dr. J. William White, by John S. Sargent; and bronze bust on pedestal of Dr. Joseph Leidy.
The Wistar Institute of Anatomy and Biology, Thirty-sixth Street and Woodland Avenue, founded, 1892, for extension of Wistar and Homer Museums; first university institute exclusively for research in anatomy and biology, buff brick and light terra cotta, fireproof, built, 1808, architects, George W. and W. D. Hewitt; in 1905 this institute became the clearing house for anatomy in America, and in 1906 was appointed Central United States Institute for Brain Investigation; the five principal independent anatomical journals of the United States are published here. Open to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, 9.00 A.M. to 4.00 P.M., Saturdays, 9.00 A.M. to 12.00 M. Contains bronze bust, sculptor, Samuel Murray, 1890, of General Isaac J. Wistar, Sc.D., who gave the building and endowment; in bronze vase are his ashes; also in three bronze vases are the ashes of Joseph Leidy, M.D., LL.D., John Adams Ryder, Ph.D., and Professor Edward Drinker Cope. Opposite is The Architectural School, Thirty-sixth Street and Woodland Avenue, second only in importance and numbers to the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Paris: the esprit de corps of faculty and students is most pronounced; students and graduates, of late years, have won more competitive prizes, and scholarships, than those of all other American schools combined. The four years’ course leads to degree; special two years’ course, and summer six weeks’ course.
The Botanic Gardens, established, 1894, face Hamilton Walk, open to visitors from sunrise to sunset; greenhouses filled with rare plants from all the world; lily and lotus ponds are attractive feature of the campus. Open-air plays are given here. The Vivarium, established 1898, has fresh and salt water aquaria, first vivarium ever connected with any educational institution. Zoölogical Laboratory, on Hamilton Walk and Thirty-ninth Street, built, 1910; architects, Cope & Stewardson, hard burnt brick and Indiana limestone, English Collegiate, of middle seventeenth century; considered best working laboratory for its purpose in this country, contains many famous collections.
Veterinary Building and Hospital, Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue, constructed about a square courtyard; one of best equipped of its kind. Architects, Cope & Stewardson, English Collegiate, seventeenth century, hard burnt yellow brick and limestone trimmings, roof green slate, built, 1906-07.
School of Dentistry, “Thomas W. Evans Museum and Dental Institute,” Fortieth and Spruce Streets, Collegiate Gothic, time of Henry VIII, hard burnt red and black brick and Indiana limestone, built, 1914, architect, John T. Windrim; the grotesques ornamenting the band courses, while in the spirit of the Middle Ages, are modern in subject and caricature; most complete edifice in the world, devoted to the science of dentistry. Museum contains the priceless Evans collection, gifts from the nobility of Europe, portraits and busts of Dr. Evans.
Henry Phipps Institute for the study, prevention, and treatment of tuberculosis, founded, 1903, northeast corner of Seventh and Lombard Streets; facing Starr Garden Park, a civic center of the Playgrounds Commission; is colonial style, designed by Grosvenor Atterbury, New York, brick trimmed with white marble.
Flower Astronomical Observatory at Llanerch on West Chester Pike, architect, Edgar V. Seeler, 1895. Open to visitors every Thursday evening during collegiate year, 7.00 P.M. to 10.00 P.M.; is equipped with an 18 inch equatorial telescope, and other instruments of latest and most approved design.
Dormitory Houses, Jacobean, thirty in number, begun in 1895, suggest the Oxford and Cambridge colleges; carved grotesque bosses on main cornices are reminiscent of the Gothic period; they are amusing, and display an unusual amount of imagination; material, hard burnt yellow brick and Indiana limestone; architects, Cope & Stewardson; entrance through two gateways known as Memorial Tower, gift of the Alumni, dedicated in 1901, in memory of University of Pennsylvania men who served in the Spanish-American War, corner-stone was laid by General Miles, in 1900; and the Provosts’ Tower, named as memorial to the Provosts of the University of Pennsylvania, whose twelve names are carved on medallions, from William Smith to Charles Custis Harrison.
William Penn Charter School, 8 to 10 South Twelfth Street, was planned in 1684 at a meeting of the Provincial Council, Governor Penn presiding. In 1689, William Penn, writing from England to Thomas Lloyd, President of Council, instructed him to set up a “Public Grammar School in Philadelphia,” the school was incorporated in 1698, and George Keith engaged as head master, 1699. In 1701, William Penn, while on a visit to America, granted the school a charter from his own hand; on the same day he chartered the city itself. This school is the oldest existing chartered school in America; a second and more liberal charter was granted, 1708, and a third charter, under which the school is still conducted, 1711; the originals of all three of these charters are in the school’s possession. The school will be moved to Pinehurst, the Waln estate, twenty-two acres on School Lane near Wissahickon Avenue, Germantown, acquired by gift; field now used for their athletic sports, surface having been adapted for the purpose by the Newhall Engineering Company, Philadelphia, who made there a football oval; an eighteen foot quarter-mile track; and an eighteen foot 220 yard straightway; drainage of these tracks and oval is such, that in eight years, not one scheduled contest has been postponed on account of condition of the ground.
Central High School, Broad and Green Streets; established, 1836. In view of the increasing income and diminishing debt of the nation, the United States Congress in 1836 passed a law, authorizing the distribution of surplus revenue among the states, to be disposed of as their legislatures might enact; Pennsylvania devoted her share, over $70,000, to public education, and the controllers erected a high school in Philadelphia, which was completed, 1838, east side of Juniper Street, below Market Street. In 1853, the original building was sold; present structure occupied in 1900. Conferring of academic degrees dates from 1849. Memorial window to Edward T. Steel in assembly room.
Girard College, College and Corinthian Avenues, for the care and training of orphan boys; founded by Stephen Girard, a native of France, who at his death, in 1831, left his estate for this purpose. Main building, architect, Thomas Ustick Walter, architect of the Capitol at Washington, probably the finest architectural specimen in Philadelphia, modeled after a Greek temple, white marble, covers an area of 34,344 feet, exclusive of eleven marble steps by which it is approached on every side; a colonnade of 34 Corinthian columns aid in supporting the marble roof, each column 6 feet in diameter and 55 feet high, the diameter of corner columns being increased 1½ inches to overcome apparent reduction of size from their insulated position; bases 9 feet 3 inches in diameter, 3 feet 2 inches high, capitals 8 feet 6 inches high and 9 feet 4 inches wide; each shaft, as well as the bases, consists of a single piece, without vertical joints; at each end of the three story building is a vestibule, the ceilings of which are supported by eight columns, whose shafts are composed of a single stone; corner-stone was laid July 4, 1834, and the completed building transferred to the Board of Directors, 1847. In the first vestibule is white marble sarcophagus, with body of Stephen Girard, and his statue by Gevelot; the memorial room contains portrait of Girard, by J. R. Lambdin, copy from posthumous portrait by Bass Otis in Masonic Temple; interesting collection of furniture; pictures; china; silverware, and fine marble bust of Napoleon I, by Canova, presented to Girard by Joseph Bonaparte.
Present capacity, 1520 boys, admitted from six to ten years of age and graduated fourteen to sixteen years of age, preference of admission is given to those born within the old Philadelphia city limits, next in consideration those born in Pennsylvania, and third group, boys born in the cities of New York and New Orleans. There are several hundred on waiting list.
Equipment comprises ten white marble buildings for school and house purposes, chapel seating 1600, and other buildings, also plant for heat, light, and power, inclosed on forty acres with a ten-foot high stone wall. Endowment now about $29,000,000. Soldiers’ and sailors’ monument on campus, in memory of the graduates who served in the Civil War; sculptor, J. Massey Rhind. Clergymen are excluded by Girard’s will, “that the boys might be kept free from denominational controversies.” Bible has always had a foremost place in the teaching of the college; Chapel speakers are laymen of prominence in the professional and business world.
Other Places of Historic Interest
Residence of John Fitch in 1791, 462 North Second Street; in 1790 John Fitch’s steamboats made regular trips; Petty’s Island was used as a port for the Perseverance, one of the five steamboats that Fitch constructed for use on the Delaware, before Robert Fulton placed his Clermont on the Hudson; it was blown up at moorings on this island. Residence of Edgar Allan Poe from 1843-44 west side of Seventh Street, above Spring Garden (old number 234). Bush Hill Mansion, on west side of Seventeenth Street below Spring Garden, erected by Andrew Hamilton in 1740; front lawn sloping to Vine Street, was scene of a Fourth of July celebration held in 1788, after the last of the nine states that made the Constitution effective came in; the procession dispersed here at “Union Green,” James Wilson, a signer of the Constitution, delivered an oration, and there were other ceremonies. Springettsbury, built 1736-39, called after the name of William Penn’s first wife, manor-house of the Penns; burnt in 1808; part of site is now occupied by the Preston Retreat, Eighteenth Street below Spring Garden. Northeast corner of Broad and Walnut Streets, site of Vauxhall Garden; a ball was given here in honor of General Andrew Jackson after his victory at New Orleans, January 8, 1814. Penn Treaty Park, Beach Street and East Columbia Avenue. Knight’s Wharf at edge of Green Street, in Northern Liberties; near here Poole’s bridge crossed Pegg’s Run at Front Street, it was named after one Poole, a Friend, whose mansion was here, recalls the Mischianza invitation: “The favor of your meeting the subscribers to the Mischianza at Knight’s Wharf, near Poole’s Bridge, tomorrow at half past three, is desired. (Signed) Henry Calder. Sunday, 17th May, 1778. For river parade to the Garden.” Preparations for this magnificent entertainment, the erection of numerous and vast pavilions around the Wharton mansion, and their decorations by André, Delancey, and other gallant officers, was the talk of the town for weeks. The Wharton mansion, Walnut Grove, used by the family in summer, was where Fifth Street, near Washington Avenue, is now; the British had possession there in the spring of 1778; Miss Peggy Shippen’s portrait was sketched by Major André in Mischianza costume. Philadelphia then excelled all other colonial cities in size, culture, and importance. Southwark Shot Tower, built, 1809, Carpenter Street between Front and Second, first plant in the United States which made bullets. Site of Hill’s Shipyard, Queen Street wharf below Cathrine Street. Original Swedish houses on both sides of Queen Street below Front. Site of United States first navy yard, 1201 South Front Street.
Obelisk northeast corner Twenty-third and Market Streets gives a history of the old Market Street bridge, built 1801-05; inscriptions to be recut.
Historic Germantown
Colonial and Revolutionary suburb, six miles from Philadelphia; founded in 1683 by Francis Daniel Pastorius from Sommerhausen, Germany, one of the best educated men in the Colonies; he had received the degree of Doctor of Laws at Nuremberg; was a member of the Assembly from 1687-91. Earliest settlers were Friends and German Religionists, highly cultivated, and skilled in weaving, paper-making, printing, and other trades. First railroad in America to use steam was the Philadelphia and Reading to Germantown in 1832. First successful locomotive made in America was Matthias Baldwin’s “Old Ironsides,” used on this road, only taken out in fair weather. Germantown Avenue follows an old Indian trail, made a turnpike in 1800, on which are still many historic houses of quaint colonial architecture; rough native stone with overhanging hipped roofs and a projecting pent, over doorstep. Stenton, built in 1728, brick, colonial, near Wayne Junction, residence of James Logan, Secretary to William Penn, 1727-34;
President of Council, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania; his guests were Franklin, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, Lafayette, John Randolph; occupied by General Washington, August, 1777, on way to the Battle of Brandywine; by General Howe during Battle of Germantown; Washington dined here with Dr. Logan, July, 1787, while the Constitutional Convention was in session. There is a curious underground passage from cellar to stable; the stream on the place was named “Wingohocking” for an Indian chief, who himself took the name of Logan; now in charge of the Pennsylvania Society of Colonial Dames, who have refurnished it with original pieces and relics of the Logan family; open daily 1.00 P.M. to 6.00 P.M., excepting Sunday and Thursday. Admission fee, fifteen cents. Northwest corner of Apsley Street and Germantown Avenue, Loudoun, built in 1801, residence of Thomas Armat, now occupied by Armat and Logan descendants; many wounded Americans died and were buried here in Battle of Germantown. 4825 Germantown Avenue, house built by Christopher Ottinger in 1781; walls two feet thick; rafters unhewn trees; his son, born here in 1804, was Captain Douglas Ottinger in the United States Revenue Marine; he invented the Ottinger life car which, in 1849, equipped eight life-saving stations on the New Jersey coast. 4810 Germantown Avenue, site of Wagner house, built, 1747; used as hospital after the Battle of Germantown, stable doors were taken for operating tables; many died and were buried in a trench in the rear. 4908 Germantown Avenue, built in 1760, was bought, 1828, by John S. Henry, whose son, Alexander Henry, was three times Mayor of Philadelphia and a member of Congress.
Northeast corner of East Logan and Germantown Avenue, Lower or Hood’s Burial Ground, presented to borough in 1693 by Jan Streepers; John F. Watson placed stones over graves of General Agnew and Colonel Bird, British officers killed in Battle of Germantown; see Burial Grounds. 5109 Germantown Avenue, site of Thones Kunder’s home, part of original north wall is still standing; first meetings of the Society of Friends in Germantown were held here; and a public protest against slavery was made in 1688; the paper, written and signed by Pastorius and three others, was forwarded to the Yearly Meeting in Burlington; Thones Kunder, by trade a dyer, was the ancestor of the Conard and Conrad families, also of Sir Samuel Cunard, founder of the Cunard Steamship Line; he died in 1729.
South side of Manheim Street, west of Germantown Avenue, residence of Jacques Marie Roset, who came to America in 1792, first to introduce the tomato plant into Germantown; his granddaughter was the wife of Anthony J. Drexel, Esq.; opposite, 153 Manheim Street was Taggert’s field; British Infantry encamped here. Manheim Street, corner of Morris Street, Germantown Cricket Club, organized in 1854; William Rotch Wister, was the first American to study the science and points of the play, and teach it; he was known as “The father of American cricket”; first American field, “Belfield Cricket Club,” Stenton and Olney Avenues, was the Wister pasture and orchard; second club, “Young America,” field, rear of residence of Thomas A. Newhall, Esq., Manheim and Hansberry Streets; they consolidated in 1889. Queen Lane, west of Pulaski Avenue, site of Potter’s Field in 1765, a burial place for “all strangers, negroes and mulattoes as die in any part of Germantown.”
5106 Germantown Avenue, residence of Commodore James Barron, Commandant Philadelphia Navy Yard in 1842; Captain of the Chesapeake, when captured by the British ship Leopard; in 1807 he killed Commodore Stephen Decatur in a duel at Bladensburg, Maryland. 5157 Germantown Avenue, residence and printing office, now altered, of Philip R. Freas; publisher of The Village Telegraph, in 1830; later The Germantown Telegraph. St. Stephen’s Methodist Church, opened in 1856; site of Frederick Fraley’s carpenter shop; gun carriages were made here for the American Army; Washington was a frequent visitor. 5140 Germantown Avenue, residence of Gilbert Stuart, 1794-95; the barn was used as his studio; portrait of Washington, now in the Athenaeum of Boston, was painted here; also a full length portrait of “Cornplanter,” the Indian chief. 5253-55 Germantown Avenue, formerly one dwelling, Owen Wister, novelist, was born here July 14, 1860, son of Dr. Owen J. and Sarah Butler Wister; his mother was a daughter of Pierce and Fanny Kemble Butler. 5219 Germantown Avenue, residence of John Bringhurst, carriage maker, 1775-95; a founder of the Germantown Academy; in 1780 he made a “chariot” for General Washington, whose arms and crest were properly displayed; cost £210 in gold; Martha Washington rode to Mount Vernon in it. Colonel Bird, British officer, died here. 5249 Germantown Avenue, built by Dr. Owen Wister, was his residence from 1860-70, he then moved to Butler Place on York Road; 5253 Germantown Avenue site of Christopher Saur’s residence and printing office, who arrived in Germantown, 1724; secured a printing outfit from Germany in 1738; published the first German newspaper in America, 1739; printed the first Bible in European language in America, 1743; Christopher Saur, Jr., was Bishop of the Dunkard Church, 1753. 5242-44 Germantown Avenue, site of Indian Queen Tavern, which gave the name to Queen Street. 5261 Germantown Avenue, erected by John Wister in 1744, stones were quarried from a hill in the rear; joists from oaks in Wister’s woods; family removed to Penllyn during occupancy by British, where Sally Wister, a daughter, wrote her charming “Diary.” The British General, James Agnew, lived here at the time of Battle of Germantown; was brought back wounded, and died here; now owned and occupied by Wister descendants. 5300 Germantown Avenue, corner of Queen Street, parsonage of Trinity Lutheran Church; was one of the Saur properties; first type cast in America, in 1772, was made in the cellar of this house; church built, 1837; many well-known Germantowners lie in the graveyard. 5275-77 Germantown Avenue, Germantown National Bank, 1825-68; John Fanning Watson was cashier, he lived at 5277; building was occupied by Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State, and Edmund Randolph, Attorney General of the United States, in 1793, during the yellow fever in Philadelphia.
Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Coulter Street, St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal Church, first Episcopal Church in Germantown, built, 1811; land given by Thomas Armat, Esq.; John Fanning Watson, the annalist, is buried in the churchyard. Northwest corner of Germantown Avenue, and Coulter Street, Friends’ Meeting, land given by Jacob Shoemaker, fifty acres, in 1693; in the library is a photograph of the first protest against slavery. 5425 Germantown Avenue, Masonic Lodge room; site, residence of A. Bronson Alcott, where Louisa May Alcott, authoress, was born. 5430 Germantown Avenue, residence of Captain Albert Ashmead, of the Philadelphia County Troop who commanded a troop of cavalry, and escorted General Lafayette from Bristol to Philadelphia in 1824; French Embassy during 1793. 5434 Germantown Avenue, residence of John Ashmead, father of Captain Albert Ashmead; who designed and made the first carriages known as Germantown wagons, in 1824, in the shop at rear of house; also first plows with wrought iron mold board; Lafayette purchased four, for his La Grange farm in France.
Market Square, Battle of Germantown fought here, September 25, 1777; here was the market house, prison, stocks, and public scales; in February, 1764, several hundred Paxtang boys, from banks of the Conestoga and Susquehanna Rivers, encamped here; they came east to murder the peaceful Moravian Indians, sheltered in Philadelphia, and were met by Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Willing, Benjamin Chew, and others, who persuaded them to return. Monument erected in 1883, to Civil War soldiers and sailors, pedestal with tablets, containing names of Germantown soldiers and sailors, at base are two coast defense mortars from the Civil War, two bronze cannon on wheels from the United States Arsenal; the enclosure is of musket barrels and bayonets, used during Civil War, and broken cannon from British frigate Augusta, sunk by American batteries during Revolutionary War. Market Square Presbyterian Church, originally German Reformed, built in 1733; Count Zinzendorf preached his first sermon in America here, December, 1741, and last on leaving, June, 1742; Washington worshiped here while living in the Morris house opposite; a battalion of Ninth Virginia, captured by the British, was confined here.
5442 Germantown Avenue, Morris House, Washington’s summer residence, in 1793-94, built by David Deshler, 1772-73; Sir William Howe occupied it after the battle in 1777; in 1804, it was bought by Mr. Perot for a country residence, and became the property of his son-in-law, Mr. Morris; the yard is kept in the simple elegance of colonial times. 5450 Germantown Avenue, in 1790 residence of Thomas Armat, who lived later at “Loudoun.” 5452 Germantown Avenue, erected in 1711 by John Ashmead, great grandfather of Captain Albert Ashmead; front rebuilt 1790. 5454 Germantown Avenue, occupied in 1742 by Count Zinzendorf; commencement of Moravian Seminary, now in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. Saving Fund Building, site, residence of Jacob Tellner, first stone house built in Germantown; William Penn present at the roof raising; he once preached here.
School House Lane and Greene Street, Germantown Academy, built, 1759; colonial, native stone; founded by Christopher Saur, and others of German birth, to furnish education in “English, High Dutch, and the German language.” It has always held high rank as a school; the bell was brought to Philadelphia in 1774, in the tea ship Polly, the cargo was not allowed to land, it was taken back to England, and returned here when the war was ended; telescope used by Washington during battle, when the building was used as a hospital, is here; several British soldiers were buried in the yard; cricket was first played in America here, by British officers; Bank of Pennsylvania was brought here, escorted by McPherson’s Blues in 1798, during the second yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia; gymnasium on Green Street, modern. On School House Lane, farther west, is Cricket Field of the William Penn Charter School.
Northeast corner of School House Lane and Germantown Avenue, Mutual Fire Insurance Company, in the office is “Shag Rag,” an old hand engine, imported from England, 1764; site, De la Plaine house, Whitefield preached from balcony to about 500 people in the Square. Northwest corner of Germantown Avenue and School House Lane, Germantown Bank, chartered, 1813; site of Germantown Library in 1806; used by United States Bank in 1798, escorted from Philadelphia by body of Light Horse. 5516-18-20 Germantown Avenue, site, King of Prussia Tavern in 1757, the sign was painted by Gilbert Stuart; a stage coach, with awning, ran from King of Prussia to the “George Inn,” Second and Arch Streets, three times a week. Germantown Avenue north of Chelten Avenue, Vernon Park, residence of John Wister, member of Congress until 1883; now belongs to the city; mansion, built in 1803, is used as museum by the Site Relic Society; marble statue of John Wister, near the door, made in Italy, given by his son, Jones Wister, who posed for the figure. Free library building in Park. South side of Haines Street, east of Chew, still stands a farmhouse; residence of Christopher Ludwig in 1777; appointed “Baker General” to American Army; said to be the original of Harvey Birch in Cooper’s novel, “The Spy.”
Southeast corner Germantown Avenue and High Street, site of the Morris-Littell house, was residence of Dr. Christopher Witt, physician, botanist, musician, artist, astronomer, poet; originally one of the hermits of the Wissahickon; friend of John Bartram and Francis Daniel Pastorius; an oil portrait of Johannes Kelpius, painted by Dr. Witt in 1705, is said to be the first oil portrait painted in America, now at Pennsylvania Historical Society; he started the first botanical garden in America, twenty years earlier than Bartram’s. Now yard of high school building. South side of High Street, two squares east from Germantown Avenue, St. Michael’s Protestant Episcopal Church; window of St. Michael after Guido Reni by William and Annie Lee Willet; grave of Dr. Christopher Witt is here; died in 1765, aged 90; site of old Warner burial ground; British and American soldiers were buried here.
Methodist Church, 6019 Germantown Avenue, site, Green Tree Tavern in 1748, kept by Francis Daniel Pastorius until 1754; General Anthony Wayne came this far, time of battle; Pastorius was the hero in Whittier’s “Pennsylvania Pilgrim.” Died in 1719; was buried, probably, in the Friends’ burial ground, Germantown Avenue above Coulter Street. Southwest corner of Walnut Lane and Germantown Avenue, “Wyck,” built in 1690; thought to be the oldest house now in Germantown; was used as hospital and operating room after battle; Lafayette was entertained here July, 1825. 6043 Germantown Avenue, southeast corner of Walnut Lane, was bought in 1775 by Dr. William Shippen as a summer home; center of fierce skirmish during battle; Pennsylvania manual training school was here under Dr. George Junkin, who was afterwards President of Washington and Lee University; his daughter was married to General Stonewall Jackson; in 1832, Dr. Junkin was President of Lafayette College, Easton; in 1851 this property was bought by Charlotte Cushman, actress.
Germantown Avenue above Herman Street, Mennonite Meeting House, founded, 1708; present building erected, 1770; William Rittenhouse, first pastor; Brigadier General Agnew was mortally wounded near here. 6205 Germantown Avenue, site of house built in 1738 by Dirck Keyser, a silk merchant, who came from Amsterdam in 1688. 6239 Germantown Avenue, was known as Washington Tavern in 1793. 6306 Germantown Avenue, Johnson House, in thickest of fight; time of battle the British swarmed through, and cleared everything edible; family fled to the cellar. Germantown Avenue, north of Washington Lane, built, 1775, Concord School House; now Charter Oak Library. North of library is the Upper Burial Ground; has probably the oldest existing stone to a German in Pennsylvania, Cornelius Tyson, buried in 1716; graves of the Lippard family are here, ancestors of George Lippard, author; American soldiers’ memorial stone was erected by John Fanning Watson. Southeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Duval Street, site, “Pomona,” residence Colonel Thomas Forrest, artillery officer; later member of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Congress. 6338 Germantown Avenue, site, the Ship House, built, 1760; had representation of a ship on south gable; rear, site of first public hall in Germantown.
Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Johnson Street, Chew House, “Cliveden,” known as the “Germantown Battle Field,” built in 1760 by Benjamin Chew, Attorney General of the Province, member of Council, later Chief Justice; colonial, solid and heavy masonry; forming admirable fortification; was the scene of most important battle in Germantown, October 4, 1777; family were away; house partly furnished was left in charge of servants, the building was battered with bullets, holes still shown in the doors. Northwest corner of Germantown Avenue and Johnson Streets, Upsala, one of the finest examples of colonial architecture; built in 1798 by John Johnson; is still occupied by his descendants; during the battle, Americans put their cannon in the yard to fire on the Chew House, opposite. Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Upsal Street, Billmyer house, built in 1727; Washington stood on the horse block, telescope in hand, to penetrate the smoke of battle, and discover force of the enemy at Chew House. Woodwork bears marks of bullets and attempts by soldiers to set it on fire; bought by Michael Billmyer in 1788, a celebrated German painter, whose business plant was here; tablet placed by Site and Relic Society.
6611 Germantown Avenue, parsonage of Dunkard Meeting House, said to be over two hundred years old; near it, in the battle, General Nash was mortally wounded and Major Witherspoon, son of Rev. John Witherspoon, President of Princeton College, killed by the same cannon ball; they were buried in St. Michael’s Lutheran Churchyard. 6613 Germantown Avenue, mother church of the Brethren, or Dunkards, in America; who came here in 1719; Church was organized by Peter Becker, first pastor, in 1723, present building, erected, 1770, has tablet to Christopher Saur in the meeting house, he published the first American quarto edition of the Bible, 1743; in the graveyard is buried Alexander Mack, founder of the Dunkard sect in Germany, who came to America, 1729.
Southeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, St. Michael’s Lutheran Church, founded 1737; in 1742, Rev. Henry Melchoir Muhlenberg had charge here, and of St. John’s in Philadelphia; pews were placed in 1750; during the battle, the organ was destroyed by British soldiers, who ran along the streets blowing the pipes; in the graveyard is buried Christopher Ludwig, and other patriots. 6749 Germantown Avenue, residence George Hesser; Elizabeth Drinker’s journal, written while staying here in 1793, during yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia, gives interesting local details of life in Germantown.
7301 Germantown Avenue, opposite Allen’s Lane, Lutheran Theological Seminary, site, “Mount Airy,” summer residence of Chief Justice William Allen; Lafayette was entertained here; later a school was conducted by Benjamin C. Constant, “The American Classical and Military Institute.” General Meade and his brother, also General Beauregard, were educated here. Southeast corner of Germantown and Gowen Avenues, now part of Lutheran Theological Seminary; residence, in 1792, of Joseph Miller, whose daughter was married to James Gowen; their son, Franklin B. Gowen, was born and lived here many years, also his brother, James E. Gowen.
7406 Germantown Avenue, Mount Airy, Pennsylvania Institution for Deaf, semi-deaf and blind-deaf; founded in 1820 by David G. Seixas, who gathered deaf street roamers in his home, taught, fed, and clothed them; a school was planned, Bishop White presiding; constitution adopted, and directors chosen; now a splendidly equipped trade teaching department for boys and girls; articulation, and lip reading taught; architecture, Norman.
Interesting Places West, Not on Germantown Avenue
Queen Lane, two blocks west on Wissahickon Avenue, Carlton, residence of Henry Hall; Washington’s headquarters, August, 1777, and two days in September, before and immediately after the Battle of Brandywine; when the British occupied Germantown, the Hessian detachment encamped from here to the Schuylkill River: General Kuyphansen’s headquarters: beyond the house, toward Queen Lane reservoir, is a granite monument erected by Sons of the Revolution in 1895 to commemorate the earlier encampment of the American army at this point. Corner of Rittenhouse Street and Lincoln Drive, birthplace of David Rittenhouse, Pennsylvania’s first and greatest astronomer, born April 8, 1732; house erected in 1707; his grandfather, William Rittenhouse, came to America in 1690; first paper maker in America; mill located near the house.
Places of Interest East
East Logan Street, across Wissahickon Avenue, the picturesque Wakefield Mills and residence of Thomas and Sarah Fisher, née Logan, in 1795, granddaughter of James Logan, of Stenton; passing Wakefield, Old York Road is soon reached. Jewish Hospital on the right. Old York Road, on left, residence of Pierce Butler, bought in 1812; he was a member of the Constitutional Convention, and Senator from South Carolina; his son, Pierce Butler, Jr., married Fanny Kemble; present residence of Owen Wister, their grandson; the British outpost was stationed near here. Church Lane and Wingohocking Creek, site of Roberts Mill, built in 1683; first in the country; built by Richard Townsend, a passenger on the Welcome with William Penn; back of mill, British had a small redoubt, guarding their encampment in Germantown. Northeast corner of Church Lane and Dunton Street, Spencer farmhouse; Thomas Godfrey, inventor of the quadrant, was born here; he died in 1749. Northwest corner of Haines Street and Limekiln Turnpike, Philadelphia National Cemetery, thirteen acres, founded in 1885; soldiers of the War of the Rebellion are buried here. Farther along Limekiln Turnpike left wing of Washington’s army moved down this road, and a sharp encounter occurred with an outpost of British.