English Index
Abbia, statuette from, 5
Achæans, 5, 13, 15, 16, 17, 102, 105, 108
Achilles, 21;
shield of, 20
Acropolis of Athens, 38, 78;
archaic statues from, 44, 69, 71, 73-96, 101, 112, 119
Actor’s dress, 71
Ægean islands, 2, 9, 14, 98
Ægina, 39, 41
Ægis, 33, 34, 47
Agamemnon, 17, 28
Alabastron, 125
Alcinous, palace of, 2, 20
Alexander, 111
Amazons, 53, 106, 118
Andromache, 27;
head-dress of, 35, 108
Antinous, 31, 32
Aphrodite, 3, 33, 34, 64, 124
Apollo, 26, 80, 94, 109, 110
Apron, 5, 11, 13
Argive women, 40
Aristarchus, 20
Aristophanes, 54, 98, 101, 110, 115, 116, 117, 120, 122, 123
Aristotle, 98, 99
Arsenic, 121
Artemis, Brauronia, 68, 70;
in Dresden, 46, 53;
of Gabii, 70, 95
Artemisia, 50
Aryballos, 121
Assyria, 7, 8, 99, 117
Athena, 26, 29, 32, 33, 44, 46, 47, 48, 51, 87, 119
Athenians, 39, 40, 41, 42, 53, 57, 58, 59, 63, 65, 73, 74, 86, 91, 98, 116, 120, 126
Barber, 120
Bombycina, 99
Boots, 8, 116, 117, 118, 119
Bottles, 121, 123
Bracelets, 6, 7, 13, 125
Breeches, 6
Briseis, 50
Brooches, 3, 4, 16, 18, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31, 32, 35, 37, 40, 41, 52, 53, 56, 60, 62, 64, 67, 81, 87, 92, 94, 95, 125
Brygos, 66, 69
Bull-taming, 7, 8
Buttons, 13, 76
Calypso, 27, 33, 34
Carians, 40, 41, 57, 58
Cassandra, 48
Charites, relief of the, 78
Chiton, Homeric, 18, 21, 22, 27, 31, 32, 37;
Doric, 51, 52, 53, 60;
Ionic, 19, 32, 41, 44, 46, 51, 58, 59-70, 76, 77, 79, 80, 81, 82, 84, 87, 89, 93, 96, 98
Chitoniscus, 77
Chlamys, 54
Circe, 33
Cloak, 6, 7, 17, 24, 26, 34, 49, 52, 55, 76, 77, 78, 80, 92, 93, 95
Coa, 99
Coæ vestes, 98, 100
Colour, applied to sculpture, 83, 84, 85
Colours, 37, 100, 101
Combs, 123
Corsets, 70
Cos, silk from, 99
Cosmetics, 113, 122
Crete, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 14, 57, 107
Crossbands, 62, 64, 69, 70, 96
Cupbearer of Knossos, 3, 9, 107
Delphi charioteer, 62, 65
Demeter, 106
Dionysus, 69, 117
Doric dress, 39-56, 59;
blended with Ionic, 52, 64, 95
Draped type, 15, 17, 38
Dressing-gown type, 15
Ear-rings, 29, 37, 125
Egypt, 9, 98;
tomb fresco from, 9
Eirene and Plutus, 45
Eleusis, 49, 72, 78
Embroidery, 31, 32, 38, 61, 89, 100, 102, 103
Ephebi, 55, 110
Etruscans, 10
Euphronius, 79
Eustathius, 70
Euxitheos, 50, 62
False hair, 123
Fibulæ, 3, 4, 5, 13
Fillets, 108, 110, 111, 112, 122
Flounces, 3, 12, 14, 96
Footgear, 7, 115-119
Frills, 76, 80, 82, 86, 90, 91, 92, 94, 95
Fringes, 12, 29, 33
Fustanella, 78
Girdles, 5, 11, 16, 19, 22, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 43, 44, 45, 46, 50, 53, 62, 63, 70, 77, 79, 80, 81, 87, 122
Gold, 29, 31, 33, 34, 100, 112, 119, 125
Hair nets, 36, 37, 108, 113
Hair-pins, 123, 125
Hats, 11, 12, 111, 113
Head-dress, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 28, 36, 37, 107-114
Hector, 3, 28, 35
Helen, 27, 35, 102
Hellanicus of Lesbos, 10
Helmets, 8, 9, 28, 107
Hephaistos, 52, 111
Hera, 29, 33, 37, 66, 112
Hermes, 118
Herodotus, 39, 41, 42, 48, 57, 58, 59, 64, 96, 98, 103, 108, 117
Hieron, 49, 60, 65, 106
Himation, Homeric, 24, 25;
Doric, 48-52, 54, 95;
Ionic, 52, 69, 71, 73-96
Hittites, 7
Homeric civilization, 2
Homeric dress, 4, 15-38
Homeric house, 4
Iliad, 3, 8, 17, 20, 21, 22, 25, 27, 28, 29, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 102, 108, 109
India, 98
Ionians, 19, 57, 58, 59, 65, 98, 126
Ionic dress, 40, 42, 51, 57-72, 73-96
Jacket type, 3, 11, 12, 13, 15
Jewellery, 122, 125
Kefts, 9
Kerchief, 36, 38, 113
Kertch, fragments of fabrics from, 97, 103, 105, 106;
jewellery from, 125
Kimono, 12
Knossos, 2, 3, 5, 10, 11, 12, 16, 38, 107
Kolpos, 44, 52, 60, 63, 70, 80, 88
Laertes, 18; shroud of, 17, 27
Leather, 8, 9, 21, 28, 33, 97, 98, 116, 117
Lekythos, 121, 125
Linen, 11, 12, 19, 20, 21, 22, 27, 35, 40, 41, 58, 59, 60, 70, 88, 97, 98
Materials, 19, 60, 70, 75, 79, 88, 97-99, 100, 105
Mausoleum, 51, 53
Mausolus, 50
Medici collar, 12
Menelaus, 17, 28
Men’s dress, pre-Hellenic, 5-10;
Homeric, 17-28;
Doric, 52-56;
Ionic, 58-72
Minoan art, 13, 15
Mirrors, 123, 124
Modern Greeks, 7, 38
Mourning, 37, 101
Mycenæan dress, 3, 7, 107
Mycenæan remains, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 13, 15, 28, 37, 107
Mycone, 14
Nausicaa, 35
Necklaces, 6, 7, 37, 125
Nereids, 64, 87
Nike, 48, 103
Obi, 12
Odysseus, 23;
house of, 2
Odyssey, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37
Oil-flasks, 121
Ointments, 121
Olive-oil, 121, 123
Open Doric dress, 31, 44, 46
Ornamentation, 101-106
Overfold, 30, 33, 44, 45, 46, 48, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 80, 82, 85, 87, 88, 89, 94, 96
Pæonius, 47
Paris, 28, 32
Parthenon, 45, 47, 51, 55, 64, 65, 95
Patroclus, funeral of, 21
Patterns, 11, 32, 33, 61, 75, 77, 83, 88, 89, 96, 100-106, 112
Pausanias, 53, 98, 99, 110
Pelasgians, 10, 58
Penelope, 31, 32, 34
Peplos, 3, 28-33, 44, 48, 51, 52, 63, 69, 80, 81, 82, 87, 96;
of Athena, 46, 47
Perfume, 123
Pergamon, 47
Persephone, 48
Petasos, 111, 114, 117
Petsofa, terra-cottas from, 6, 11, 12, 13, 14
Pheidias, 46, 47, 102, 119
Phœnicians, 9, 57
Pigments, 104, 122, 123
Pins, 16, 18, 28, 29, 30, 35, 43, 45
Plaits, 110
Plato, 115
Pollux, 46, 52, 59, 96, 100, 101, 116, 118, 123
Poseidon, 37, 38, 54
Powder, 113, 122
Pre-Hellenic dress, 1-14, 15, 23, 38, 107
Pyxis, 124
Razors, 120, 121
Red ochre, 122
Rouge, 122, 123
Rings, 4, 109, 125
Sandals, 17, 28, 29, 37, 116, 118, 119, 122
Sash, 12
Scarf, 37, 76, 87, 93, 112
Scissors, 65, 120
Scraper, 120
Seaweed, rouge prepared from, 123
Sericum, 99
Sewn garments, 12, 18, 31, 52, 60, 64, 66, 67, 87, 91, 96, 97
Shoes, 7, 10, 115, 116, 117, 119
Silk, 88, 97, 98, 99
Silkworm, 99
Skins, 17, 27
Skirt, 3, 11, 12, 13, 83, 88
Sleeves, 6, 11, 32, 53, 60, 61, 62, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 71, 87
Slippers, 116, 118
Snake-goddess, 11, 107
Snood, 113
Socrates, 53, 115
Solon, 41, 42, 59, 93
Spartans, 53
Strigil, 121
Sulphuret of antimony, 123
Sumptuary laws, 41, 59, 93
Survivals, 8, 13
Tanagra statuettes, 49, 114
Theocritus, 98, 114, 115, 118, 119
Thessaly, 111, 114
Thessalian cloak, 54
Thetis, 34, 37
Thrace, 54, 111, 116, 117
Thucydides, 42, 57, 58, 59, 109
Tiryns, wall-painting from, 7
Toilet, 120-125
Toilet-boxes, 123, 124
Toilet scenes on vases, 121, 122, 125
Trojans, 15, 16, 102, 105
Tunic, 6, 7, 17
Turks, 7
Unguents, 123
Vaphio cups, 7
Veil, 29, 34, 35, 36, 37, 48
Velletri, Athena of, 51
Victory, 47, 92
Waistcloth, 5, 6, 10, 22, 23
White lead, 122, 123
Wigs, 123
Women’s dress, pre-Hellenic, 10-14;
Homeric, 28-38;
Doric, 39-52;
Ionic, 57-96
Woollen garments, 24, 25, 26, 27, 51, 60, 97, 98, 105
Xenophon, 113, 116, 122
Xoana, 86
Zeus, 29, 32, 44, 69, 102
Footnotes
1 J. L. Myres, Journal of Hellenic Studies, vol. xx. Cp. also, for general principles of ground plan, “The Palace at Knossos,” British School Annual, VIII.
2 Cp. Busolt, Griechische Geschichte, vol. i., 2nd ed., chap. i.
3 Ridgeway, Early Age of Greece, chap. viii.; S. Müller, Urgeschichte Europas, pp. 95, 96.
4 Fig. 1, Cupbearer of Knossos. Cp. also, Vaphio Cup, gems, Perrot and Chipiez, VI., 426. 21.
5 British School Annual, IX., pls. ix. and x.
6 Dagger blade from Mycenæ. Perrot and Chipiez, VI., pl. xviii., 3.
7 Perrot and Chipiez, VI., fig. 365.
8 The characteristic Cretan boots may possibly be a direct survival.
9 Schliemann, Mycenæ, pp. 272, 273.
10 Perrot and Chipiez, VI., fig. 380; Ἐφημερίς Ἀρχαιολογική, 1888, pl. viii.
11 Perrot and Chipiez, III., fig. 303.
12 British School Annual, IX., “Keftiu and the Peoples of the Sea.”
13 Daremberg and Saglio, Dictionnaire des Antiquités, s.v. “Etrusci.”
14 Figs. 2 and 3 from British School Annual, IX.
15 Fig. 4, only a very small fragment of the skirt remains; but the painting has been restored. Reproduced from the British School Annual, VIII., fig. 28.
16 Fig. 5 from British School Annual, IX., pl. viii.
17 The large sash worn over the “Kimono” and tied rather high up at the back.
18 British School Annual, IX., pls. xi. and xii.
19 On “fibulæ,” see Sophus Müller, Urgeschichte Europas, p. 95. O. Montelius, Civilization of Sweden in Heathen Times.
20 British School Annual, IX.
21 Tournefort, I., 109.
22 See also, Choiseul-Gouffier, Voyage pittoresque de la Grèce, Paris, 1809, where the women of the islands are represented wearing a tight corslet over a chemisette. A high head-dress, not unlike that of the Petsofa statuettes, was commonly worn by the island women as late as the eighteenth century.
23 Iliad, 18. 122, 389, 24. 215.
24 Ibid., 9. 594; Odyssey, 3. 154.
25 Odyssey, xix., 137.
26 Ibid., xiii., 22.
27 Iliad, ii., 42.
28 Beiträge zur Geschichte der altgriechischen Tracht, p. 13.
29 Odyssey, xv., 60.
30 xiv. 72.
31 Pauly-Wissowa, Real Encyclopädie, s.v. “χιτών,” Studniczka, p. 15 f.
32 Odyssey, xix., 232:
τὸν δὲ χιτῶν᾽ ἐνόησα περὶ χροῒ σιγαλόεντα
οἷόν τε κρομύοιο λοπὸν κάτα ἰσχαλέοιο
τὼς μὲν ἔην μαλακὸς, λαμπρὸς δ᾽ ἦν ἠέλιος ὥς.
“And I saw the shining tunic on his body, like the skin of a dried onion—so soft it was, and bright as the sun.”
33 Iliad, v., 113; xxi., 31.
34 Cp. Fig. 7 (a); the human figure struggling with the Minotaur.
35 Odyssey, iii., 349.
36 Ibid., xvii., 86.
37 Ibid., xiv., 522.
38 Iliad, ii., 183.
39 See Fig. 7 (a), where the second figure from the right is represented wearing only the χλαῖνα ἁπλοΐς.
40 E. A. Gardner, Handbook of Greek Sculpture, p. 128.
41 Unless the garment were square, the diagonally opposite corners would not coincide when folded corner to corner; they are invariably represented on the vases as coinciding.
42 Fig. 7 (b) is taken from the “François” vase.
43 Odyssey, xiii., 223.
44 iii., 126; xxii., 440.
45 Odyssey, ii., 97; xix., 137.
46 Ibid., v., 257.
47 Iliad, x., 22.
48 Ibid., 29; iii., 17.
49 Odyssey, xiv., 23.
50 Iliad, x., 261 f.
51 Ibid., xxiv., 93.
52 Ibid., v., 194.
53 Ibid., xxiv., 795.
54 xiv., 178 f.
55 p. 97 f.
56 Fig. 8.
57 Iliad, vi., 289.
58 Ibid., v., 733; viii., 385.
59 Odyssey, xv., 105; xviii., 292.
60 See section on “Materials and Ornamentation.”
61 Odyssey, v., 230.
62 The passage is repeated word for word of Circe, Odyssey, x., 543.
63 Odyssey, xv., 469.
64 Iliad, xiv., 214.
65 B., 254.
66 The κάλυμμα κυάνεον, “dark blue veil,” of Thetis (Iliad, xxiv., 93) is the same garment.
67 Hera is represented wearing it so on the François vase, Fig. 7 (c), and although her head is not covered, yet, from the way in which the folds lie high upon the nape of the neck, it is clear that they could easily be drawn up over the head (cp. also, Aphrodite, on the same vase).
68 Thetis is represented in the François vase just about to veil or unveil her face; though the head is missing, it is clear, from the position of the arm, that the κρήδεμνον was worn over the head.
69 Iliad, iii., 141.
70 Odyssey, vi., 100.
71 Cp. Iliad, xxii., 406, 470.
72 Ibid., xxii., 468 f.
73 Odyssey, xvi., 173; xxiii., 155, etc.
74 Das Homerische Epos, p. 157, f.
75 Iliad, xviii., 40.
76 Odyssey, ix., 247.
77 Iliad, xxiv., 93.
78 Iliad, xiv., 182.
79 v., 87.
80 Plutarch, “Solon,” 21.
81 Fig. 10.
82 Fig. 12.
83 Furtwängler, Masterpieces, p. 324.
84 Pollux, II., 187.
85 Fig. 13.
86 Furtwängler, pl. ii.
87 Ibid., fig. 6.
88 B.M., E. 183.
89 E. 307.
90 Fig. 14, the figure to the right in the upper band.
91 See Fig. 20.
92 Fig. 15.
93 E. 258, fig. 16.
94 Fig. 17.
95 Masterpieces, p. 142, fig. 18.
96 B.M., B. 331.
97 Figs. 20 and 21.
98 Fig. 20.
99 i., 1567.
100 Pauly-Wissowa, Real Encyclopädie.
101 Fig. 22.
102 Fig. 23.
103 i., 4.
104 i., 8.
105 i., 171.
106 According to Ridgeway, Early Age of Greece, the Carians, like the Leleges, were a Pelasgian people.
107 i., 6.
108 Poll., vii., 49.
109 Studniczka has pointed out that the word χιτών is of Semitic origin, and connected with a root signifying “linen,” Beiträge, p. 17 f.
110 Cp. Fig. 14, the second figure to the right in the lower band.
111 E.g., B.M., E. 73; cp. Fig. 25, the two male figures.
112 Fig. 27.
113 Fig. 16.
114 Quæstiones vestiariæ.
115 Fig. 28.
116 Prolegomena to Greek Religion, p. 292.
117 Cp. Fig. 29.
118 Fig. 29.
119 C. I. A., ii., 754.
120 Nos. 687 and 688.
121 B.M., Vase, E. 230.
122 Ar. Lys., 48; Menander Meineke. frag. incert., 141.
123 C. I. A., ii., 754.
124 Jahrbuch, i., pl. 102a; Gerhard, Auserlesene Vasenbilder, 79, 80; Dumont and Chaplain, pl. 8; Journal of Hellenic Studies, 1890, pl. 12.
125 Cp. Amelung in Pauly-Wissowa’s Real Encyclopädie, s.v. “Chiton,” p. 2322.
126 B.M., E. 270.
127 Fig. 31.
128 Lechat, figs. 8 and 9; Perrot and Chipiez, 290 and 292.
129 See Fig. 32.
130 Perrot and Chipiez, VIII., pls. 5 and 12; Lechat, 22, 29, 30, etc. This feature comes out clearly in fig. 31.
131 Perrot and Chipiez, VIII., fig. 303; Lechat, fig. 31.
132 Cp. Jahrbuch, 1893; Arch. Anz., H. 519; Winter.
133 Another possibility which suggests itself is that the sculptor may not have painted the statue himself, but may have handed it over to a painter who did not understand how the drapery was constituted.
134 Jahrbuch, xi.
135 How Greek Women Dressed.
136 E.g., Lechat, fig. 12.
137 Figs. 34, a and b, are photographs of a model draped in this manner.
138 Fig. 36.
139 Fig. 37.
140 B.M., E. 336.
141 Athens Central Museum, 1285.
142 Aristophanes, The Clouds, 72; Plato, Crito, 53 D.
143 Lys., 150.
144 VI., 21.
145 II., 86.
146 Theocritus, II., 73.
147 Hist. Anim., v., 19.
148 Hist. Nat., xi.
149 VI., xxvi., 6.
150 For silk generally, see Daremberg and Saglio, s.v. “coa”; Smith, Dictionary of Antiquities, s.v. “sericum”; Yates, Textrinum Antiquorum, pp. 160 f.; Pariset, Histoire de la Soie, Part I., chap. i.
151 Propertius, I., 2; Horace, Satires, I., ii., 101.
152 Horace, Odes, IV., xiii.; Tibullus, II., 6.
153 Chap. lviii.
154 Aristophanes, Pax, 1173; Lys., 1140.
155 58.
156 iii., 125.
157 Figs. 39 and 41 a and b.
158 I., 203.
159 For patterns generally, see H. B. Walters, History of Ancient Pottery, ii., 209-235; Riegl, Stilfragen.
160 For colouring, see Comptes rendus, 1878.
161 British Museum, E. 140. Fig. 14, above.
162 See British School Annual, 1901-2, VIII., 72, fig. 37.
163 Iliad, ii., 443, 472.
164 Ibid., xxii., 468 f.
165 Fig. 42 (a).
166 Fig. 42 (b).
167 Fig. 42 (c).
168 Fig. 42 (d).
169 The hair of Euphorbus, described in Iliad, xvi., 52, was possibly dressed in this fashion.
170 Das Homerische Epos, 166-170; cp. Mittheilungen des Deutschen Instituts in Athen, vi., pl. 7, p. 186.
171 Jahrbuch des kaiserlich Deutschen Instituts, xi., 1896, pp. 284-291.
172 Fig. 43 (a).
173 Fig. 43 (b). It is interesting to note that little Athenian schoolgirls of to-day wear their hair in this fashion.
174 Pausanias, I., xxxvii., 2; Æsch. Choeph., 6.
175 1267.
176 Fig. 19.
177 Fig. 32.
178 Fig. 45 (b).
179 Fig. 45 (c and d).
180 Fig. 45 (e).
181 Fig. 45 (g).
182 Fig. 45 (h).
183 Fig. 45 (i and j).
184 Fig. 45 (k).
185 313.
186 Fig. 15.
187 Plato, Phædrus, 229 A.
188 174 A.
189 Aristophanes, The Clouds, 103; Theocritus, XIV., 6.
190 Knights, 321.
191 Cyropædia, xviii., 2, 5.
192 Fig. 46 (a and b); Fig. 48 (c).
193 Fig. 46 (c and d).
194 VII., 85.
195 The Wasps, 600.
196 The Wasps, 274; The Clouds, 719.
197 Fig. 22.
198 I., 195.
199 Figs. 47 and 48 (a).
200 XV., 6.
201 VII., 85.
202 Figs. 48 (b) and 49 (a and b).
203 XXXV., 25.
204 VII., 84-93.
205 Anth. Pal., vi., 307.
206 Fig. 51.
207 Fig. 52 (a).
208 x., 2.
209 Theophr. de Lapidibus, 56.
210 VII., 95.
211 Fragment 695.
212 See Xenophon’s Cyropædia, I., iii., 2.
213 Fig. 53 (b).
214 Fig. 53 (a).
215 Fig. 52 (b).
216 Fig. 52 (a).
217 Fig. 54.
218 Page 259 ff.
Blank pages have been skipped.
Footnotes have been renumbered and moved to the end of the book.
Illustrations have been slightly moved so that they do not break up paragraphs while remaining close to the text they illustrate.
Throughout the text, “Fürtwängler” has been replaced by “Furtwängler” and “ἀπλόϊς” by “ἁπλοΐς”.
Other emendations made: page 7: “ἤυτε” → “ἠΰτε” page 8: “ἰμᾶσιν” → “ἱμᾶσιν” note 10: “Ἐφήμερις” → “Ἐφημερίς” page 16: “χαλῖνα” → “χλαῖνα” page 19: “ἑλκεχιτῶνες” → “ἑλκεχίτωνες” page 20: “εὐννήτους” → “ἐϋννήτους” page 21: “στρέπτοῖσι” → “στρεπτοῖσι” note 32: “κατά” → “κάτα” page 29: “εὐτρήτοισι” → “ἐϋτρήτοισι” page 29: “λαμπρὸν” → “λευκὸν” note 54: “xiv., 175 f.” → “xiv., 178 f.” page 31: “εὐγνάμπτοις” → “ἐϋγνάμπτοις” page 34: “v., 229” → “v., 232” note 74: “Die” → “Das” page 59: “ἑλκεχίτῶνες” → “ἑλκεχίτωνες” page 80: “Ἑλκεχιτῶνες” → “Ἑλκεχίτωνες” note 170: “Die” → “Das” page 115: “ἔποίει” → “ἐποίει” page 122: “πόλλῳ” → “πολλῇ” note 212: “Cyropædeia” → “Cyropædia” page 133: “ἑλκεχιτῶνες” → “ἑλκεχίτωνες”